Steve Driscoll's Flesh Formulas

[colourshift]

In another thread, Steve had given permission for me to relate to you these 'recipes'...

All Recipes use ComArt transparent airbrush Acrylic (except white) - the numbers are the drops needed of each.

#1
225 Orange
43 Royal Blue
16 White

#2
250 Cadmium Yellow
24 Bright Red
16 Moss Green
15 Violet
10 White

#3
135 Cadmium Yellow
60 Sienna Brown
30 Bright Red
10 Violet
10 Smoke
8 White

#4
120 Cadmium Yellow
80 Yellow Ochre
30 Bright Red
10 Violet
9 Smoke
5 Ultramarine Blue

#5
150 Yellow Ochre
60 Burnt Orange
40 Bright Red
40 Cadmium Yellow
25 White
20 Smoke
6 Royal Blue

#6
100 Vermillion
37 Cadmium Yellow
17 Emerald Green
13 Smoke
10 White

#7
100 Sienna Brown
60 Yellow Ochre
32 Rose
20 Cadmium Yellow
20 White
8 Royal Blue
8 Smoke

#8
95 Yellow Ochre
60 Burnt Orange
25 Bright Red
20 Cadmium Yellow
20 Smoke
15 Rose
6 Royal Blue

Reminder: Steve mentioned that every time he gets a new batch of ComArt, he has to adjust the formulas...so bear this in mind. You may have to play 'chemist' and adjust the recipe accordingly. Do check the 'colour' by spraying onto a piece fo white paper, scrap illustration board - and check it in sunlight.

[Whit]

I'm a red head (well,, used to be) and freckles !!!
Which formula would be best for me ???:party-smiley-042:
Seriously,,, Thanks for posting these,,, handy !!!
I've already used a few of his formulas from
his instructional material,,, some great info here !!!

[colourshift]

They're different 'skin tones'...each recipe is a little different, and I'm sorry but I didn't make notes as to what each one comes out like. You're just gonna have to mix em. (maybe when Steve pop's in again he can shed some insight)
I've written Michael Cacy to get permission to print his recipe as well, he has a totally different approach to Steve... (Michael the former Illustration/Commercial art instructor at the Getaways, now semi-retired, painting for fun, and living in Bermuda)

[sdriscoll]

Whit,
The only way to get the right tone is to mix the colors up, Spray a test sample and hold it up to your reference. Don't try to mach the color exactly just try to get close to a middle tone. I usually pic a mid tone and use the first color as if I were painting the whole thing with that one color and then add the other tones like reds, violets, greens, etc. I try not to spray any color on the portrait that does not have a little of the flesh color in it. For exmpl. if I were going to be adding the red to the face I would add bright red to the fleshtone in my cup first and then spray it. This cuts down on the chance of an awfull color shift. For shadows add smoke and violet or green to the flesh color. I posted an example of the process.

Good luck, Steve.

[Whit]

Thanks Steve,,,
actually I was kinda pokin fun there
but I understand what you're saying
and appreciate the added info here !!!
I've used your formulas as a base as
long as I've been into T-shirts,,, it was
your vids that I used to get a basic
understanding of what was required
in different applications and renderings !!
This is the first opprotunity I've had to
let you know how much I appreciate the
instructional material you've produced !!!
:wink2: not suckin up,, just lettin ya know !!!
Thanks !!!

[zackarybancroft]

The Steve Driscoll's Skintone Color Formula that I bought from Coast Airbrush is very different. But like it's been mentioned, Steve adjust the formulas. I mix em up, and use the one I like the most.

Zack

[JimmyG]

Here's another bump for those looking a skintones.....

[dsmhero]

Here's another bump for those looking a skintones.....

perfect!

[XZOTIC INK]

THIS IS GREAT,,THANKS THANKS,,THANKS,,,:rockon::rockon:

[colourshift]

Thanks for bumping this Jimmy, I wasn't able to get to it the last time I was online.

[sugus]

There is one thing i dont understand very well... the numbers of the mixes are all diferent kinds of skin tones, or are adds to the initial colour for doing the skin tone?

Thanks a lot!
Ed.

[colourshift]

Each "number" is for a different skin tone formula, not as an amendment to something else, no.

[sugus]

Ok i understand thanks a lot!

[michael mcclammy]

i got two sets of these the other day and they are great.they fow alot smoother than createx and although i still have to mix, i dont have to mix near as much. as always i still strain just incase. thanxs for letting everyone know.

[colourshift]

What you're refering to as a "set" is probably the refined ComArt pre-mixed formulas - Steve worked with ComArt to put em out there, as there was so much interest in it.

The recipes listed in the beginning of the thread were the "early days" of the same flesh tone formulas ComArt put out.

Don't think you can use this in the "stead" of Createx...this is illustration type acrylic, meant for paper or canvas. It is not t-shirt paint. I've heard of some pro friends (commercial illustrators) using it for a helmet (it was cleared after) - but that's not something I would recommend. Unless you have a bad batch of paint, or it's sat around (like for a coupla years) and gotten "chunky" there's no need to strain it.

[valium]

Thanks Alot :perfect10:

[theo]

thank you .

[serega]

Thanks for the formulas!
I like Olive Flash 20301 (I bought a set of Com-Art Steve - Driscoll) which of these formulas Olive Flash 20301