View Full Version : how hard should your clear be?
jonmiller
10-15-2008, 03:43 AM
awhile ago, i cleared an old helmet for practice. was only the second time id had a go. was actually quite pleased with the results.
only thing was, i dont think its hard enough. if i press really hard with my thumb, i can make a mark in it. its only a very small mark, but a mark none the less, but i do have to press hard.
i assume a clearcoat should be harder than this right? more solid like say glass? can you guys suggest something i might need to do? more/less thinners or hardener or something possibly?
many thanks,
jon
Cowboy
10-15-2008, 06:10 AM
Need to Know What Materials from the base up Jon. If its not Leaving a thumbprint in it It could be Further down, Base, Primers, Fillers, Even the Helmet itself . Some Helmets can soften using certain Materials .
Also How long has it cured , Have You Wetsand & Buffed Yet, Thats Ussually the last stage to Making a Tough clear finish. Once again Depending on the Paints. If Its Uro 2 part Clear Follow The Exact instructions as far as the Hardener to clear Ratio. & I Would never reduce it more then 10% Myself & Only if Needed. Most Mistakes made Is Guessing on the Hardner to clear Ratio. To much or to little Can Cause You all sorts of Problems.
I,d Suggest if You dont have any Get some of the Plastic Marked Mixing cups . Takes all the Guesswork out of it.
jonmiller
10-15-2008, 06:58 AM
thanks for the response cowboy.
i used 2k clear and primer. not the best of brands i dont think. not sure about the helmet material.
its been sat for ages now, did it a couple months ago.
i put a light coat on, let it tack off, then 2 or 3 more allowing to tack off inbetween. let it sit for a day or 2 then wet sanded. was going to then do a couple more coats but didnt. had just bought a polisher and compounds so had a go with that. was pleased with the nice shine i got but like i say, i think it should be abit harder.
my clear coat process sound about right? like i say, im a complete beginner to this.
yeh, i used some mixing cups and measured as best as poss. recommended ratio was 4parts clear to 1 part hardener and reduce 10-15% . i did that and reduced about 10%.
maybe beacause the clear n hardener were different brands perhaps?
i just primed the helmet and then cleared it as i just wanted to have ago at clearing something and didnt want to waste alot of paint. could that have caused any problems?
what primer should you use on helmets? different types for different material helmets? if so, which ones?
Cowboy
10-15-2008, 07:33 AM
thanks for the response cowboy.
i used 2k clear and primer. not the best of brands i dont think. not sure about the helmet material.
its been sat for ages now, did it a couple months ago.
i put a light coat on, let it tack off, then 2 or 3 more allowing to tack off inbetween. let it sit for a day or 2 then wet sanded. was going to then do a couple more coats but didnt. had just bought a polisher and compounds so had a go with that. was pleased with the nice shine i got but like i say, i think it should be abit harder.
my clear coat process sound about right? like i say, im a complete beginner to this.
yeh, i used some mixing cups and measured as best as poss. recommended ratio was 4parts clear to 1 part hardener and reduce 10-15% . i did that and reduced about 10%.
maybe beacause the clear n hardener were different brands perhaps?
i just primed the helmet and then cleared it as i just wanted to have ago at clearing something and didnt want to waste alot of paint. could that have caused any problems?
what primer should you use on helmets? different types for different material helmets? if so, which ones?
Yes I,d Say using different brands of Clear & Hardner Would Definatly be a NO NO in My book. Not saying it cant be done. But Why ask for trouble. Ya Know.
Also Clearing directly over Primer could be another problem, Not the Way the System works . Uro,s Use a Chemical bond , Peimers are Designed to be covered with the Proper base with sanding in between the steps, To allow for proper degassing & curing , Then Cleared . Mix or Match any steps. More Potential for Problems.
I Would Use Uro,s from the getgo , From Primers to clear, & as far as Your Clearing Procedures Yes You did it about right. Just takes time to figure out what works best for You.
As far as the Helmets, Theres so many different kinds & Materials it depends which type of Materials for what type of surface. & I,m not familiar with the newer Stuff these days .
All That Being said I hope Your taking the proper safety measures dealing with Uro,s as They are very Dangerous to Your health . Do Your research & stay safe, Not only for You but others around You. This stuff gases off for quite some time, Dont want it doing it Where people are around. Hope this helps a little. & Best of luck in the future .
REDTAIL
10-15-2008, 08:41 AM
i used a differnt brand hardner than the clear the ratio was the same for both brands the part never did get hard fully cured my quess that would be it i use kustom shops 2k clear
i can shoot it ar 6 PM and its hard the next morning
RT
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