Paint info

[trooper]

I am looking to do some airbrushing for the first time and would like to have a go at a radio control helicopter canopy, it will be a nitro (engine) powered heli and would like any info on what paint i can use that will be fuel proof, i know most people have been using 2 Pack but would like to know if there is any other paint that is easier ie:- acrylic, waterbase, or if acrylic isnt fuelproof could i put 2 pack lacquer ontop of acrylic, waterbase paint.
Any help big or small would be realy appreicated as im a compleat beginner.
Thanks
Trooper

[Cowboy]

Trooper . Howdy & Welcome, Hope You dont Mind but I moved Your thead to Where You May get Better Responses, & Might Find Answers to your Questions By Looking around in here. If You Get Time Pop up to the Introduction section & get the Proper welcome. Thanks. Good to Have You aboard.

[Whit]

We used to use 2-part Imron for fuel dragsters,,,
some good stuff for fuelers (nitros),,,
don't know if the stuff's still around tho !!!
Good Luck on it !!!

[trooper]

Thanks Cowboy will get the hang of the right place as i look through the forum more, Thanks for the welcome and will look forward to the forum
Trooper

[ABD]

Can't say i've ever found a fuel "proof" clear...Never tried the stuff Whit mentioned...Regular 2pack is pretty resistant, but not "proof"..LOL

You can clear over some waterbase with the 2pack...I do it with Goldens AB paint....E-tac and probably a few others can handle it too...if you spray the good clears just make sure to protect yourself...Killer chems in there.

[Cowboy]

No Doubt, Whits on The Money about Imron, But Thats some Nasty stuff , Health Wise, Spraying It. But Damn near Bullet proof, Laquer thinner Damn near wont hurt it. Just Not sure What it Would do on plastic.

But You better Get Yer Shine From the Getgo. Cuz If You have to sand it at all. Youll never find a compound to Bring it back to Gloss . IMO. Anyway. Closest Thing I Know to it is Good Powder coating ( Electriclly Charged for Metal only , at Least That I know of.) Or Ceramic Coating. I Doubt Either one could be Used on Plastics of any kind though. Anyways Best Of Luck, I,m Sure Theres More input to come.

[Jmoore12]

Parma makes a arylic polycarbonite fuel proof paint called faskolor. I use it on my raptor 30 and also on some smaller electrics.
They spray well and have a bunch of candys, pearls and translucent colors along with the capability of being able to add flakes.
Tower sells them, but I get mine from my local hobby shop for a buck less per 2.oz

Alot of the professional canopy painting companys use house of kolor, but for the normal hobbyist they are a tad pricey. At this point I use a automotive clear from a rattle can with good results. That picture was before clearing.
http://i213.photobucket.com/albums/cc243/JustinMoore12/000_0010-1-1.jpg

[Merlinsoars]

I use auto air and house of color with an automotive clear (nason specifically) on all my canopies, Ive not had any issues with residual "mess" killing one of my jobs either on mine or customers projects.
hmmmmm faskolor fuel proof???? same general stuff as autoair and createx me thinks. Guess I'll have to dig out a bottle and see

Peace
MTM

[Jmoore12]

FASKOLOR is a water-based, non-toxic paint that is specially formulated for clear lexan type polycarbonate surfaces and much more! It was developed for clear RC and Slot Car Bodies and actually becomes part of the body when brushed or sprayed on. The paint remains flexible and resists cracking, chipping and most impact damage. Because it is water-based, it cleans up easily and is fuel-proof. It can be used for any modeling or hobby project and can be top coated with clear enamel or urethane if a gloss is desired. It is compatible with styrofoam and most surfaces. FASKOLOR can be used with most airbrushes with a medium tip and an requires 40-70 psi of air (More air pressure is required than solvent based paint which typically requires around 25-35 lbs of air). FASKOLOR is available in 2 oz/60 ml bottles and Airbrush Bottle Adaptors (#40242/40243) are available separately to "plug" the bottle right into your airbrush for ease of use. FASKOLOR is available in many types of mixable colors and can be combined with our FASGLITTER for show stopping and concourse winning combinations.
directly off the first paragraph on the parma homepage
http://www.parmapse.com/fas1.html

[Cowboy]

Good Info JM , Thanks For The Great Explanation, Never Really heard of the stuff Before , Might even Have to try it Myself soon.

[trooper]

Thanks for the replies and info chaps will do some looking around and price some up, i will be painting on fiberglass mostly

[ABD]

Indeed, Thanks for the info JM...heard the name before but never any feedback, Or Site info on the goods...Sounds like it's worth a try:D

[Jmoore12]

No problem. I just got some of the glitter along with a few candys in the mail today. Ill post up whenever I figure out what im going to do with them.

[mmccoy555]

I would recommend HOK ready to spray paints. They easy to use and not necessarily bullet proof but once cured I don't think the fuel will hurt the finish. Especially if you stick with thinner coats and not glob it on there.

[Jmoore12]

Yeah I agree with Hi rise. I dont think the paint would matter as much as a decent clear.

[trooper]

Thanks 000Hi Rise i will try your method
Regards

[Black Magic]

Now here's a subject where I have a bit of experience to share...

The problem with fuel is the nitro content. Some fuels use pretty high nitro and this causes some major problems with certain paints. The only 2 types of paints that really hold up well are 2 part urethanes and epoxy based paints. Pretty much everything else CAN be a bit iffy.

What 000 said is pretty spot on though, but it has risks. If the paint beneath the clear is also a 2 part urethane, you'll probably be fine. But if it's DBC or anything else, all you need is one crack, one pinhole....and watch the paint stripper go to work. And let me tell you, it's UGLY when it happens.

Thin your clear more than normal. As in, more than you would if painting a car or a bike. Helicopter canopies aren't as prone to weight build up as a large plane, so it's not as big of a deal. But you want to make sure you don't miss ANYTHING. And when clearing, do just like he said, thin coats, with an extra dose of patience. It should look soaking wet on the last coat, but not thick and runny.

A lot of newer helicopters are electric, and with these you can paint it with whatever, although a nice coat of uro clear is still hard to beat. Just always keep in mind, if any part of that paint underneath EVER gets exposed to fuel, game over.

As for what brands work well? I am sure there are plenty. But I use PPG clears and have never had a problem, and I run 30% heli fuel in my competition planes. Rocks, cracks, hangar rash, you name it, and never a problem. But then I always use DCC on the under side where most of the exhaust and raw fuel goes too. Wings and top of fuselage, easier to get away with.

I'm sure that was way more than you wanted to know, but, just be aware that it's critical to seal your art or it can get nastyfied LOL

-Mike

[trooper]

Thanks Mike
Nice bit of info, you couldent have been more helpfull.
Trooper