View Full Version : Help with coating?
blinddog 99
10-20-2006, 08:49 PM
Hi guys, I asked over at the "big shot" site and no one answered, as they probably haven't encountered this, I don't know......
I am doing a pinup on the inside door of the Adjutent General of the Texas State Guard. It should be fun, and we are working on sketches to get the look he wants.
I am trying to find out what I need to lay down over the door paint to ensure there is no solvent pop, fisheyes, etc. It is coated in Gillespie (military paint) alkyd enamel in flat (actually satin) black. My thought was to r-tape the image area and lay down some intercoat clear, then get at it..
Any wisdom here? All thoughts and ideas are welcome. I just don't know this paint, but I think it is very similar to Krylon rattle can flat black.
:)
Being a flat/satin I would think it would hold paint as a primer,,,
You don't say what paint your thinking about using for your
illustration but if thinking about a waterbase,,, I would basecoat
with at least an acrylic enamel (AA),,, after a basecoat you could
use an acrylic (Createx) for color and detailing !!
Not knowing what paint the substrate is would be a factor as well !!!
I'm thinkin I'd shy away from an intercoat unless you're thinking about
doing this in uro's or enamels,,, the fresh intercoat would increase
your chances of fisheye/etc. with waterbase over it !!!
This is only a guess !!!
You could do an underpainting in AutoAir white and come back
over this with a Createx transparent color(s) !!!
If a gloss finish is not desirable,,, could finish with satin poly !!!
Being this is an alkyd finish you could just use a 1-shot enamel !
Use a white for underpainting and cut colors with a mixing clear
for the transparency desired,,, (start with clear,, add color)
The 1-shots will work fine,,, just don't flood,,, work wet on wet
with a slight tack time between layers !!
Any hard lines (brush) can be added after dry !!!
Good Luck on it !!!
Stang
10-22-2006, 01:55 PM
I don't think you'l have any problems with anything. Is there any vehicles around you can practice on? That military paint is easy to touch up incase of an emergency. If it was me I would just do the pin up then put a couple of light coats of inter coat over it when finished. That military paint is pretty hardcore so I think you'll be fine.
blinddog 99
10-22-2006, 09:11 PM
Thanks guys, I apologize Whit, I typically use HOK all the way. That's why I was thinking of laying down an intercoat clear to shore up the surface before I start.
Thanks Stang as well, I was more concerned with bleed through or some solvent pop or something happening halfway through. I just found out I can get a sample of the paint so I will give it a test and then be comfortable. I was just worried about getting halfway through a nice project and seeing it sink or bleed or something......
Eric Linton
02-05-2007, 01:17 PM
If it were my project I would first prime the door with a good urethane primer just to prevent any problems with a reaction between the army pant and the clear coat. You might think about Ceatex Auto-Air colors as your choice of paints they are less expensive than automotive paints and you can spped cure them with a hair dryer. I've used them for about 3 years and have had great results. I use a generic urethane clear $76/gal and with no problems.
Eric
blinddog 99
02-05-2007, 06:16 PM
Hey Eric, welcome to the foruM!
Primo Customs
02-07-2007, 05:31 PM
Start out with pre cleano.. Mask and scuff teh area you are going to clear.. Shoot a caot of bulldog, Get it a Wal Mart in a spray can. Stuff works great... I use it every time... Cheap Insurance.. Shoot your Mural and Clear. If you are worried about Fisheyes then use a little Fish eye eliminator, not much because adhesion is compromized.. Solvent pop is achieved because there was not enough time to allow the solvents to excape. Fish eyes are contamination on the surface of in the air while the surface is wet. High surface tension. to break the tension Eliminator is put into the clear.(Silicone).. I hope this helps... Rick Primeau
A.P.W.
02-08-2007, 11:31 PM
I would whack that thing with some AP-01 then base it and start rockin. AP-01 has enough adhesion that you can paint chrome, I've done it twice so far for Bling no hassles yet. good luck man.
Ultra Al
02-13-2007, 12:24 PM
I recently did (still wip) a pinstripiing brush box which is posted in the pinstriping forum. I started with bare wood, stained it, put on a few coats of spar varnish, steel wolled that and shot on some ureathane innercoat clear followed by art work (flames etc) then shot it with PPG 3000 clear coat and pinstriped it. I have more stripes in progress and will shoot the final work with some more PPG 3000. I used hardner in the 1 shot this is an experiment to see if the stripes wrinkle, I could have striped with uro but, well we sill see what happens. So far no adverse reaction between spar varnish, inner coat clear and uro clear. AL
Ultra Al
02-13-2007, 12:38 PM
Heres a door I did for the OL awhile back using 1 Shot Met Gold over spar varnish no adverse affects or reactions. 1 Shot works on about anything and is cheap. If you air brush it allow extra time for it to dry, only down side. It thins well with mineral spirits. A lot of semi trucks you see going down the road are airbrushed with 1 shot. AL
colourshift
02-13-2007, 01:33 PM
Nice!
Powered by vBulletin™ Version 4.0.8 Copyright © 2012 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.