blending clears

[flat screwd]

Hello all. I need some advice on blending clears. What I have is a 70 ish dodge dart street strip car I am doing for a friend, and between the second and third coat I tried to remove a piece of debris with a razor blade and droped the blade.You would be surprised at how well razors stick when they lay flat on top of fresh material. So I get another blade to remove the stuck blade and when doing so I scraped up a little color. And in all honestly its not that bad , the problem is that its right on top of the drivers door on the roof. In the past when problems occured I would just do the repair and respray the pannel but on this dart there is no definat body line to stop at. I have tryed Valspars bz1 blending reducer with less than great results. I have the car sanded down prepared to respray the top, sail panels and quarters but sombody might have a great idea that could save me a lot of work.

[DerenArt]

lol that made u happy, know the filling i had little bug in very stupid place i mean in the curve was hard to remove, i used tape to lift it ,but tiny legs were stuck so used blade and kind of went to much hehe. It made my day ,just like urs:) i did send the spot slightly ,ab my base color and few wet but thin coats of clear with old ab(short needle and very wear of nozzle). the clear was blending around sanded area with some minimal over spray on the rest of the panel, but it all was buffed anyway. i did blend front fender on my wifes car same way about 5 years ago like 5x5 inches spot and no way to tell there was a chip before.Both were solid colors. It worked for me :)

[usevemple]

I tried to remove a piece of debris with a razor blade and droped the blade.
...ouch! Man I wish I was there catching that damn blade the right time.... I hate it when things like that happens. One time I had tiny "bumps" on the clear as well and I sanded down the area too much without even noticing I was damaging the paint! After that I painted the area over the clear, cleared again 3 coats as usuall and problem was minimized greatly but not perfect result. In my point of view there is a little late to fix the problem in that area because you have already sanded down the whole roof.
I dont actually have a solution to your problem, just wanted to say that I am sorry.
Bad things happen to good people... Merphys rule man :)

[flat screwd]

Thanks for the response fellas, I just sanded it down with 1000 and then re cleared the whole back half , it turned out good. Just wishful thinking I guess. Tape ,I have used that before ,why didnt I think of that this time. I tell you I am just going to have to sit down and write up a list of things to try and things I have already tried so when problems happen in the future I have a cheat sheet. Who am I kidding, I would just forget where I put the list .

[Cowboy]

I read this the other day , but chose not to reply . But since You have it fixed. I,ll share whats worked for me in the past.

Do This only as a test on your own stuff , Preferablly an old hood , decklid , whatever . or something that is not important to you .

Whatever area you are needing to blend . Let the clear kick & cure a good 24 hours wetsand around the entire area at least a foot or 2 foot surrounding it . with preferablly 600 to 800 grit . Rebase as needed . Let the base sit & cure no more then 12 hours .

Use a detail gun , Put a hot temp ( quick evaporating ) laquer thinner in it , Mist it lightlly on the blending area . it will Soften the clear . Let it set for 10 minutes or so . To much will wrinkle the clear & keep it off the base. this is only for the blend line . Lightlly clear it with Uro clear Staying well within the blend line . Let it sit for 30 minutes or so .

Re apply the clear heavier on the new base & lighter on the outside edges , as much as needed , But not to much at once , the last coat having more reducer in it . let dry inbetween coats . the last coat go over the blend line with the same uro reducer you used for the clear straight, detail gun again . Let it cure good ( 24 hours ) cut & buff .

It does work , but it does take pratice to get it right. But has come in very handy for Me Quite a bit the last several years . Do it only as an experiment though & it might help you later on. Or it might not . Just depends on how much You try.

Upto You. Just thought I,d give You something to try if you want . Learning how to fix mistakes is an art in itself . CB

[flat screwd]

Thanks for the idea Cowboy I will have to try this. Maybe the BZ 1 reducer would act like the laquer that you use. I never tried spraying it on directly for the sole purpose of softening the surrounding areas. This could have been my problem all along.

[DerenArt]

thats interesting tip with softening clear , im gonna try it . I guess by softening you help to bust the chemical bond and loose the edge... I have little job here i might take shot on it and try . Flat Screwed ,well good think you got your stuff fixed. Man this where we all loosing our buts on. The little goofy things:)

[sharonsstudio]

Interesting post..
Thanks CB for the tip.

[cozee]

I blend single stage and clears on a regular basis ( 2 stages are far more forgiving!!). Since I spray primarily PPG paints, I use PPG's blend Eze. Once the repair has been completed, I buff the panel from about 3' away to witihin 6" away from the primer edge. I then finish sand with 4-600 grit out to where I stopped buffing. After a good wipe down with a wax and grease remover, I lay down the first coat of paint to just past the primer edge. Then I hit the fresh paint edge with Blend Eze. Let it flash and repeat, just going past the blend edge with each successive coat of paint so the the final blend edge is just past the sanded area. Once ready, cut and buff as needed. There are many variables when blending with color matching being the most significant.