Folding paint table and accessories.......

[Smi7th]

Here are some pictures of a table I constructed for use on the job.I got tired of looking for a place to put my painting equipment when I was on site so this is what I came up with.The parts are readily(and cheaply)available used.

The basis for the table is an old person's walking assist or walker as it is more commonly known.I've picked up several at yard sales and second hand stores for $10 or less.The one I am currently using has 4 wheels rather than 2 to make it easier to move around although it doesn't stay in place as readily.

I bought two finished shelves at a local hardware store(although you can use scrap lumber if you have it)and using clips designed to hold tools to a wall affixed 4 to the bottom of each shelf that allowed them to snap to the bars of the walker when open.The top shelf also has a piece of scrap angle iron(from a previous job)attached to one end.This is to allow placement of work on the top shelf when it is elevated as an easel.There is an elevating rod made from threaded rod and another clip that snaps to one cross bar and contacts a Velcro strip on the underside of the shelf allowing it to adjusted to various angles.

The towel rod is made from another piece of threaded rod and an old paint roller.It is attached to the frame by a clip on one end and snaps into a cabinet roller latch on the other.The paint can lids go on either side of the paper roll to stabilize it.

The waste basket is a small Tupperware container with two clips attached.It attaches to one of the crossbars.It didn't need to be big as this is just for small jobs.

Additional clips are affixed to one of the vertical bars to hold my tripod.I use old camera tripods I buy at yard sales and affix clipboards to the top.The latest one I use is detachible using the clip for the camera mount.Again they are available at yard sales cheap.I just bought a brand new(still in the wrapper video tripod at a yard sale for TWO DOLLARS! The clipboards I use are aluminum purchased at a local office supply shop although any one can be used.I modify them by installing clip on color cups(available at most art supply stores)and feet on the bottom made from furniture feet and sleeve nuts(available at most hardware stores).As an added feature,I stick felt tabs on the bottom of the feet to prevent scratching a surface.

The low down chair is made from a stadium chair(clips onto bleachers)and some casters.Allows me to work close to the ground.This one I retired because it was bending from my weight.New one is built with a 3/4" plywood base.

The chair is a Snap-On piece my wife gave me for Christmas one year.

I will also try to put a list of tools I use everyday and where to get them.

[Whit]

Good Show,, a Great lil workable solution !!

[Skids]

Thanks for that Ray! Ingenious design there, and doin it on the cheaps a plus for sure.

[Norm]

Some great inexpensive ideas Ray! Thanks for sharing! Look forward to hearing about that list of tools and links.

[Smi7th]

Some great inexpensive ideas Ray! Thanks for sharing! Look forward to hearing about that list of tools and links.

I made a list of tools and posted them in the Data Base of the Yahoo group,"the Pinstriper's Page" but briefly here is some of the stuff I use:

3M brand 1/8th inch tape #233 plus for laying down a guide for side stripes and flames.I like using this tape in lieu of the blue tape as it can be re-positioned several times without losing it's tack,makes a much smoother radius,and does not promote,"creep" under it when sprayed over.It is also about $3 per roll versus about 3 times that for the blue vinyl tape.

For masking off flames I like to use 3-4" transfer tape as is used for transferring vinyl lettering to a surface.This width allows it to be bent over compound curved surfaces with a minimum of creasing.

After the mask is applied I use a piece of charcoal to delineate the 1/8th tape below.Where most people then use an Exacto type knife to cut through the tape I prefer to use an Olfa brand rotary knife.The advantages are that it doesn't tear or dull rapidly like the pointed blades do and with a little practice you can cut through the transfer tape and not the tape underneath.The 5/8ths inch diameter blade is ideal to follow the tape line.

For side stripes,I prefer to use a 1/2" wide magnetic strip layed down along the tape line(then pull the tape)to rest my finger on as I pull the line.This is available in 50' rolls at most art supply stores.Hobby Lobby sells them in 10' lengths for about $3 but you have to remove the adhesive from one side which can be messy.I usually soak the roll in 3M Adhesive Remover and then scrape it with a plastic razor blade(used for removing vinyl stripes).I store them in plastic ZipLoc bags to keep them from picking up metal particles and possibly scratching the surface I'm working on.

My Stabilo pencils are also stored in old pencil boxes(a good one is the kind a pen and pencil set comes packaged in)to keep them from getting wet.My 1/8th inch tape is stored in one of those boxes they used to mail out those free CD's in.

One item that is useful is for correcting small mistakes in lettering and/or striping.Mack sells and erasing tool for around $7.00 which is nice but being an,"economist"(slang for cheap b**t**d:)I prefer to go to the local drug store and buy a package of those little erasers(shaped like a roof)that fit on the end of a pencil for 99 cents.They function just as well.

For opening and closing cans,there are several types.The best is a combination opening/closing tool that can also puncture the rim of the can to allow paint to run back into the can.These were distributed by Steck Auto Body Suppliers.Unfortunately they are no longer produced but sometimes can be found at older body shop supply places.I was fortunate enough to acquire the last 17 from the distributor who sold them.I have since given most of them away to fellow stripers.

Another type is made by Red Devil and is available through most hardware stores that sell their products.It does not have the rim puncturing device but still works great for closing cans.

I do a lot of touching up of hand painted stripes for body shops in the area and one tool I find invaluable for helping to match paint is an inspection light(pencil size)with a single LED bulb.Usually you have to mix the color slightly lighter than the dried color to achieve a good match and the light(which simulates natural sunlight pretty well)will help do this.By observing the test line from different angles,you can judge pretty much when it is on the money.

Another product I use a lot is called,"No Touch Glass Stripper" made by No Touch products(they have a website).This product is used to clean Rain-X and other silicone based products from glass.I use it to prep glass and bare metal(stainless and chrome)surfaces for painting.Not recommended for use on paint though.Seems to be like a liquid Bon Ami cleanser.After using I wipe with a good non ammoniated glass cleaner.

Last is my seat for working low down;made from a stadium bleacher seat and some casters.

That is it for now;hope this helps others.

[Skids]

Thanks for sharing that for sure. Gotta try that rotary cutter, and have already put some CD cases aside to put tape in....good stuff!

[redanner]

Using old walkers is a stroke of genius!

[Skids]

Using old walkers is a stroke of genius!

Might come in handy gettin to them last couple jobs at the end of the road, eh?