View Full Version : Introducing myself,and 1st auto air project
Hi, my name is Rob,and I’m an AIRBRUSH ARTEEST wannabe!
I’ve been part of this group for a couple of months and I’m very impressed with the talent that’s here!! Haven’t had time to paint so ,I haven’t had anything to post!!
Once the wheel starts to spin,I promise,I will participate and post more often!!
Been dabbling with the airbrush for little over a year, mostly trying out portraits. Haven’t had much time in the past 5 months to do any airbrush work till this past week.
Decided to try out some auto custom for the first time so, I bought some Auto Air paints.Maybe it’s my lack of experience,but I had a hard time painting with THIS DAMB Auto Air system!
This is a drum piece I had lying around in the garage and decided to experiment with it .Not too happy with the final results and the clear-coat job wasn’t professionally done(free job by a friend).Didn’t practice nor experiment with the paint before attacking the piece(lazziness on my part),I just started spraying on it with no plan in mind.
Aluminum Base with a faux texture and candy apple over it.
Thank you all!!!
Rob
zackarybancroft
03-12-2007, 08:49 PM
Hello and welcome aboard!:action-smiley-069:
Very cool paint job!:thumbsup:
XZOTIC INK
03-12-2007, 09:10 PM
welcome, nice stuff:multistars:
colourshift
03-12-2007, 09:16 PM
Welcome, and I feel your pain with the Auto Air.
I just got done painting at Autorama at the Sata booth with Auto Air...There's a coupla cheats that I'm sure you've heard with the AA here on the Board. First of all, 25 percent reduction is crap. You can reduce it 4010 & 4011 (according to some) up to 400 percent. Second, we're finding out there is no pot life. The bottle of reducer will tell you 24 hours but we're finding that after a day, no problem. Shake the hell out of it and go. Bear in mind, if you're trying to spray old school flake or any kind of larger pigment paint through a tiny aperature airbrush, it's gonna give you fits....
One more more tip...a fantastic/water mix works great for moving semi-dried paint in your airbrush, but do not leave it to soak in it...else you'll find that it will remove the chrome. Trust me, I learned the hard way.
jason prouty
03-12-2007, 10:27 PM
welcome to the group from oregon
A Big Texas Welcome !!!:partyalone:
AirTodd
03-13-2007, 01:04 AM
Rob,
Welcome to the board.Nice looking drum.If you are having problem with the paint.Then you need to try some etac.Give Bill a call.Tell him that AirTodd told you about the paint and site.http://www.etac-airbrush.com/contacts.html .Good luck.Todd
Clinton
03-13-2007, 01:23 AM
Rob,
Welcome to the board.Nice looking drum.If you are having problem with the paint.Then you need to try some etac.
Hope that's not going to be the new trend of this board as well. Auto Air works and works well, you just have to use it right just like product. Etac has some huge flaws as well, dosn't stick to the surface your spraying for starters. But I'm not going to get into a flame war over that stuff again.
And back on topic, Welcome the the forum Rob.
blinddog 99
03-13-2007, 05:20 AM
Rob, welcome to the forum. Nice paint!
Cowboy
03-13-2007, 07:16 AM
Welcome Rob, hang in there You,ll getter figured out, lots a great & knowledgable people here to help You. Cowboy
sharonsstudio
03-13-2007, 07:28 AM
Welcome Rob
Thank you all for the replies.
I just want you guys to know that I’m not here to put down the Auto Air products. As I said in my first post,I’m new to this paint, and did not give myself the chance to experiment and understand this system before attacking the piece. For now, I bought this stuff and I will use it and I’ll try to understand it better,but I will also try other paint systems too!!!
Just a question for you all, would other water based paints(Golden,Comart,etc),be compatible to the Auto Air, meaning would I be able to apply a layer of Golden paint to the Auto Air painted surface, and can I use their reducer to the Golden paint????
Thank you all!!!
Rob
Welcome to the forum, looks like you are well on your way.
Looks good from here,
Clem
moose
03-13-2007, 11:55 AM
Welcome,
Drum set looks good. Rmemeber the mantra Practice, Practice, Practice. It is the only way to get better.
moose
Welcome Rob.
AA can be a bitch to paint with but stick with it as some have said already you can thin the hell out of it and it still sticks but be aware if your going to mask over artwork give it a light coat of reducer and heatset first, this will help to smooth it out and lock it down.
Michael
Idahoairhead
03-13-2007, 02:22 PM
Very nice, like your highlights on the skulls. Great job!
colourshift
03-13-2007, 04:12 PM
You asked if the AA was compatable with Golden/ComArt....nope. One is considered a waterbased automotive paint, the other Illutration/fine art paint. If you painted with a little of both on canvas....probably no issue would come of it.
On a automotive piece? Tank, fender, hood...etc.. NOT a good idea. Once that Urethane clear coat hits the ComArt and Golden...there's no tellin what will happen...and I'd rather you didn't find out the hard way. It could do nothing, it could wrinkle...dunno. I for one am not willing to find out.
I use watercolour pencils with work done on metal with AA...no problem though...
kruble
03-13-2007, 04:42 PM
HI and Welcome. Nice work.:clapping2: :partyalone: :cheers:
Clinton
03-13-2007, 07:11 PM
Actaully Golden is just fine for small stuff on top of Auto Air. Once in awhile I'll use it for detail if I don't have the correct colour or the Auto Air is just not working (hardly ever). But you cannot use Auto Air on top of Golden or other acrylics, they work ok together but the reg acrylic just doesn't have any bit. This is because the Golden ect are closed pore paint, which means they dry to a cured hard surface any layers laid on top will not stick well enough for automotive/bike use. The Auto Air on the other hand is an open pore paint, which allows all layers to fall into the next and bond. That is also what lets the clear soak through and bond to the substrat. Oh and about the wet sanding thats also the reason you can do it. Hope that helps.
colourshift
03-13-2007, 07:19 PM
Thanks for clarifying Clinton...I erred on the side of caution...haven't been as experimental as you.
Full Blast
03-14-2007, 01:23 PM
Hi Rob another welcome from Texas. btw Im a Rob too. :) Awsome drums.
egneg
03-14-2007, 05:27 PM
Hia and welcome to the forum - nice stuff! :spaceship:
Thank you all for replying, and thank you COLORSHIFT for the pencil Tip!
I’ve got an old rusted Harley tank ,I’ll send it out to a friend in order to sand blast, and then I’ll use my Auto Air on it and then post it once its done.
On the drum piece (wood base),I used KRYLON(can) primer, now, would I be safe in using this type of primer on a metal surface??
Thanks,
Rob
Well,I did try the Krylon primer on a sheet of metal,seems to work fine up to now ,I'm gonna clear it this week and let you know what happens!!!
Thanks;
Rob
josie
03-24-2007, 04:12 PM
Hi Rob welcome aboard...love your fire on the drums...Great job:clapping2:
airarts
03-24-2007, 04:21 PM
Well,I did try the Krylon primer on a sheet of metal,seems to work fine up to now ,I'm gonna clear it this week and let you know what happens!!!
Thanks;
Rob
Post some pictures in the Auto section too please;-)
Saint
03-27-2007, 02:31 AM
Hi Rob!
Welcome to the forum!
I'm with Clinton.
Auto Air is a great paint, just has a real learning curve to it.
I've used it since they released the very first version back in the early 1990!
The new formula is incredible!
You just have to get really familiar with it and the nature of the beast.
Keep at it
Denise
Powered by vBulletin™ Version 4.0.8 Copyright © 2012 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.