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Red-Mud
01-28-2011, 06:09 PM
This is a boat I just got that needs some repairs to the paint.

ABD
01-28-2011, 06:31 PM
Ouch, are they all in easy places?..Looks like some spots could be a pain..lol

sharonsstudio
01-28-2011, 08:00 PM
Looks like a pain with all the colors.. good luck!

Red-Mud
01-29-2011, 04:59 PM
There are a couple of small chips that need to be color matched - but that's the easy part. The hard part is that there are about a half dozen stress cracks (spider type) that go through the gell coat. I will have to use ca to wick through and glue the gell coat back down to the FG. Then I will have to use over thinned clear to fill the stress cracks and blend it back into the original clear coat.

Thanks for the "good luck" I will need it.

AndyW
01-29-2011, 05:13 PM
Looks a challenge, whats CA? is it a resin mix.

Red-Mud
01-29-2011, 05:22 PM
Looks a challenge, whats CA? is it a resin mix.

I'm sorry - it's super glue.

AndyW
01-29-2011, 05:32 PM
Lol thought it was some magic formula ha ha..............ta for the explains anyway, amazing that it will just wick in there and bond back to the FG.

Red-Mud
01-29-2011, 05:46 PM
Ca will not set unless there is a lack of O2. Once it has a chance to wick into the cracks it will be covered with a plastic bag tight to the surface and then the ca will set. This will also help to even out surface imperfections. Hold the plastic in place for about 60 seconds and peel it it off - job done.

ABD
01-29-2011, 06:07 PM
Interesting..Always hated those stress cracks...Never known any other way than grinding them out...Would do it in a V shape (like welding) Either pack that with new glass weave and resin or a tigerhair type body fill......Never had any issues, but your way sounds much more correct.

Do you have a link to that stuff you could spare?

AndyW
01-29-2011, 07:09 PM
Great piece of info.

Red-Mud
02-04-2011, 04:52 PM
Interesting..Always hated those stress cracks...Never known any other way than grinding them out...Would do it in a V shape (like welding) Either pack that with new glass weave and resin or a tigerhair type body fill......Never had any issues, but your way sounds much more correct.

Do you have a link to that stuff you could spare?

It's nothing special ... just use slow set CA. Wet sand with 800 grit and clear. Wet sand with 1000 grit and buff. Like magic the spider crack is almost gone and the original paint still looks good. You have to look pretty close to see it. It's the same principle used to fix cracks in windshields.

Flykilla
04-12-2011, 11:33 AM
Hey have not been on here for ages and nice to see a great boat project, good work. Looks really good.

mmccoy555
04-12-2011, 10:21 PM
Gotta get those stress cracks out otherwise they will just come back. I don't know how soon on a little boat like that but I know on fullsize boats if the crack is fully taken care of it will just come right back through the gelcoat and paint. I usually use a can open with the sharp triangular shape or a dremel to remove the crack all the way down to the origin.

JimmyG
04-13-2011, 10:32 AM
I'm sorry - it's super glue.


Ca will not set unless there is a lack of O2. Once it has a chance to wick into the cracks it will be covered with a plastic bag tight to the surface and then the ca will set. This will also help to even out surface imperfections. Hold the plastic in place for about 60 seconds and peel it it off - job done.

CA = CyanoAcrylate

You can also use Cyanoacrylate "Accelerator" that is brushed on or sprayed on for instant setting of CA adhesives...

Carlos
04-19-2011, 02:59 PM
I've discovered a crack in the resin top coat on the carbon fibre helmet Im currently painting. You cant see the crack until you squeeze the helmet sides inwards, then the front pushes outwards revealing a hair line crack. I tried to get super glue into it but it wouldn't hold together. I think the only way is to try and reinforce the rear of the 'shell' to attempt to stop the flex in the first place

mmccoy555
04-19-2011, 10:42 PM
Gotta get those stress cracks out otherwise they will just come back. I don't know how soon on a little boat like that but I know on fullsize boats if the crack is fully taken care of it will just come right back through the gelcoat and paint. I usually use a can open with the sharp triangular shape or a dremel to remove the crack all the way down to the origin.

Ha ha what I meant to say was "if the crack ISN'T fully taken care of" and "I usually use a can OPENER with the sharp shape".

bigwater
04-20-2011, 02:02 AM
I've discovered a crack in the resin top coat on the carbon fibre helmet Im currently painting. You cant see the crack until you squeeze the helmet sides inwards, then the front pushes outwards revealing a hair line crack. I tried to get super glue into it but it wouldn't hold together. I think the only way is to try and reinforce the rear of the 'shell' to attempt to stop the flex in the first placeMake damn sure you get a disclaimer on that helmet that it is a show piece only. If it's showing cracks when it's flexed, it is not going to hold up when it hits a curb and the guys brains spill on the ground.

Carlos
04-20-2011, 05:05 AM
Make damn sure you get a disclaimer on that helmet that it is a show piece only. If it's showing cracks when it's flexed, it is not going to hold up when it hits a curb and the guys brains spill on the ground.technically, it's only classed as a head fairing; and aerodynamic aid, rather than a protective hard shell. There is currently no law in the UK that restricts cyclists to wearing hardshell approved helmets, so aerodynamic head fairings are worn at the riders' risk; they have no protective qualities whatsoever. Appologies for not describing the 'helmet' better in my post. Dunno about elsewhere in the world, but in the UK there's no requirement to wear any head gear when cycling, but I appreciate what you're saying.

bigwater
04-20-2011, 11:07 AM
DUH! I should have realized you were talking about a bicycle helmet, not a motorcycle helmet, since you're always working on bicycle stuff. When I read this, granted after a couple of bourbon drinks, I thought motorcycle helmet and the sirens went off in my head.

Carlos
04-20-2011, 04:02 PM
DUH! I should have realized you were talking about a bicycle helmet, not a motorcycle helmet, since you're always working on bicycle stuff. When I read this, granted after a couple of bourbon drinks, I thought motorcycle helmet and the sirens went off in my head.you know I have still yet to paint a motorcycle lid! Got a feeling one will come my way sometime soon, but not too worried about going that route as there's so many out there already doing the job. I like nieches!

Red-Mud
04-20-2011, 05:02 PM
Gotta get those stress cracks out otherwise they will just come back. I don't know how soon on a little boat like that but I know on fullsize boats if the crack is fully taken care of it will just come right back through the gelcoat and paint. I usually use a can open with the sharp triangular shape or a dremel to remove the crack all the way down to the origin.

The stress cracks are due to the boat blowing over at 60+ mph and stuff bouncing around in the hull. I will fix them and then add another layer of FG to the inside to strengthen the hatch. And of course I will take appropriate measures to insure things such as lipos's don't break loose again.

Thanks flykilla for the comps.

Norm
04-20-2011, 06:08 PM
Mud, how sensitive is that thing to balance?... will adding the fibreglas shift the balance?.. not familiar in how those things work on that scale... 60+.. that is crazy fast at that scale!

Red-Mud
04-21-2011, 12:29 PM
Norm, the COB needs to be adjusted to match water conditions. On calm water the COB will be a bit further back than when there is some wind and chop. This is usually done by adjusting where the batteries are in the boat, the COB will be anywhere from 28% to 30% of the length from the transom. 36772

Norm
04-21-2011, 12:48 PM
Mud, thanks for the explain.. and being a visual person, the accompanying photo helped me understand what you were talking about. I'm assuming these are powered by electric motors? and what are the clear lines, pneumatic? coming out of a valve body? guessing those are for trimming the boat? Excuse my ignorance... always been fascinated with RCs, just never owned any.

Red-Mud
04-23-2011, 03:18 PM
Yes it's electric. What you see is silicone tubing as the brushless motor and electronic speed control are water cooled.

Remmie
02-24-2012, 01:44 AM
Nice Paintjob and what a fast boat (I noticed its build with "budget" setup ;-) )

Red-Mud
03-01-2012, 10:31 AM
Nice Paintjob and what a fast boat (I noticed its build with "budget" setup ;-) )

Thanks, the budget stuff is getting much better as far as quality goes and sometimes better than the older high dollar stuff.