Hey Ron, grab your oracle 631 and get in here...

[HighRisk]

Hey buddy, first I want to say thank you for the suggestion on using oracle 631 in the other thread. I tried it and, IT SUCKS! Glue residue from hell. Anyways, all I can say is if you use the stuff ( it works very well for masking) make sure your work is intercoat cleared before you pull off the masking. It is lower tack then some of the others but its still a paint in the ass. Now I know "not what to use". Let this be a warning to the others. :) On to the next masking material.....any suggestions?

[bigwater]

Sorry to hear you've had trouble with it bud. I've never had trouble with it. Maybe you got some old stock. The only thing I've ever used as paint mask other than 631 is Oracal 810, which is a true paint mask with almost no tack, and I only use it for complex curves because it's about three times the cost of 631. Again, sorry if I steered you wrong.

[Norm]

It's what I use.. never had issues...

[bigwater]

Which Norm, the 631 or the 810?

[AndyW]

Yip the 810 great stuff, greeny tinge, believe this and art tools ultra mask are very similar in appearance except the price difference, don't leave it on too long other than that great.

[ABD]

I found most anything i've tried will leave residue if you tape it and let it sit to long...even the good ole green 3m tape (which is the best as it gets as far as tape, imo) did you let it sit overnight Todd? I never used that stuff so no idea, just guessing

[HighRisk]

Nope, it went on saned down clear coat. The 631 was on maybe an hour max. Then tried to take it off. It almost seemed brittle. It broke up allot. Then the residue from hell. Its not anybodies fault. You did not steer me wrong Ron. (I still respect ya) I think ill be trying something else from now on. It turned out nice. It did take 3 times longer them normal. lol. Who knows I may have gotten new/old stock. When I clear the tailgate ill post a pic.

[maxxpaane]

I buy the white paint mask from Richards distributing, never had a residue prob, been using for over 7 yrs. MP

[JimmyG]

also Todd....ya didn't say what type paints you were using with the Oracal 631...
such could be a factor with your leftover glue residue problem...

When it comes to using computer plotted paint masks and removable plotter vinyls like 631, ya really need to do your research on the adhesive chemical types and paint compatibility...most times it's the paint type that causes the glue residue to happen due to incompatibility of solvents...

[HighRisk]

also Todd....ya didn't say what type paints you were using with the Oracal 631...
such could be a factor with your leftover glue residue problem...

When it comes to using computer plotted paint masks and removable plotter vinyls like 631, ya really need to do your research on the adhesive chemical types and paint compatibility...most times it's the paint type that causes the glue residue to happen due to incompatibility of solvents...

Im sure you are right Jimmy. I guess I figured that sanded down clearcoat was petty much impervious to any adhesives. It is but, lots of sticky residue was left. I'm going to try something made by Iwata. Stretch mask frisket film, for painting helmets, and Transfer right friskitfilm for painting hard edge stuff on autos.

[Norm]

Which Norm, the 631 or the 810?
The 631 Ron... use with HOK and waterbase E'tac... never had any problems... it isn't on the surface for any great amount of time.. hour or two.

[corey]

I use the orafol 810. I tried the 631 this last winter when I got my plotter and it was really hard to get the residue off. Also had problems with it being brittle but I wrote that off to being in a cold ass garage. The only problem I have had with the 810 is is so low tack I have an issue with pulling the transfer tape without pulling the 810 off with it. I bought the ultra transferRite low tack. I still have a full roll of the high tack clearchoice stuff that I will probably never use. That stuff aint ment to come off.

[HighRisk]

Well trhank god im not the only one who had probs with the 631. I thought I either did somting wrong or was going crazy.

[JimmyG]

I've not had any problems with using 631 for paint stencil Todd...I use it when and where I can measure paint compatibility and for temporary window graphics...I have yet to have problems with adhesive left on temp graphics on cured painted surfaces either....

Did you ever think that perhaps your intermediate clearcoat had not had time to cure out properly and some possible "gassing off" did in effect cause the stencil adhesive to "go soft" thereby leaving the glomeys behind...?

You have yet to say here in this thread Todd, what paint type you were using with the 631 as paint mask stencil....?

[HighRisk]

Euros Jimmy. On top of 48 hour old clear coat sanded down to gray with 800. Kustom Shop and H.O.K to be specific. The clear was Acme Finish FC720 with 3 coats.

[Carlos]

the problem could be that if you cut the clear that was 48hrs old, it is gassing out through the surface. I sometimes have to rebake my work after I've flatted it otherwise it just isn't cured, deep down. If you can smell the solvents during/after cutting it, then I bet this is your problem. If so, try it again but hit it with some heat for an hour and then see if that works.

[HighRisk]

the problem could be that if you cut the clear that was 48hrs old, it is gassing out through the surface. I sometimes have to rebake my work after I've flatted it otherwise it just isn't cured, deep down. If you can smell the solvents during/after cutting it, then I bet this is your problem. If so, try it again but hit it with some heat for an hour and then see if that works.
Interesting, thanks for the info Carlos. Love the knowledge on this forum!

[maxxpaane]

Just posted a stop sign repaint and used my Avery white paint mask like usual. Just had the worst experience with it since I've used it. Every possible piece of adhesive that was on the mask came off on the sign, took me over an hour just to pick away at the mask since it was breaking into little bits. Used my degreaser and all is well, was the end of the roll and bet it's 5 yrs old so I'm hoping that was the problem. Going to check on this 631 or the 810. MP

[bigwater]

Shelf life on most any vinyl is only around 2 years, so yeah... that's my guess. The stuff was just plain rotten. It surprises me even less because it was Avery. I had a roll of *very* expensive vinyl that failed within one year of the production date stamped on the end of the box it was shipped in, and Avery refused to make it right. They claimed their shelf life warranty only applied to how long it sat on the distributor's shelf, not how long you as an end user had it. My distributor was embarrased and gave me a full set of ink cartridges for my printer to make ammends, but even with that I was out around 600 bucks and the distributor was out around 400 bucks. I don't buy Avery anything any more.

[maxxpaane]

Hey Ron, just checked out signwarehouse's website and was wondering if you've ever tried the Oramask products. there's a 813 and is the 810S the one you were talking about. Says it's more for the automotive solvent based stuff. MP

[bigwater]

The Oramask 810 that I mentioned in an earlier post is pretty much a general use paint mask. You can use it with solvents if you get it off before the flash point, otherwise you're stuck with a bit of a mess. 810S is a very rigid material that is translucent enough to see the underlying media you're spraying. I'd almost compare it to the acetate film that you use with overhead projectors, but with a grey tint to it. It is not conformable to compound curves, but it won't disolve with solvent paints. The 813 is very pliable and works great on compound curves, but it's a bit more opaque which makes it harder to see what's under it. Don't try to use 813 with anything other than waterborne paints or it will disentigrate on you. All have a fairly low tack, so edges need to be carefully rubbed down to prevent underspray, but all are easily removed without leaving residue after painting.

Oracal products are always the best in my book... if you can just figure out exactly what you need for what application. The applications for the different media are so specific that you almost need to be a rocket scientist to make sure you buy the right stuff for your specific job.

[AndyW]

That 810S must be the stuff I have used in the past, grey/green trans, found it great to work with and ran it through the printer on draft setting transparency seemed to work best then let dry before use.

[maxxpaane]

Just did a harley logo and only had the 641. I laid it on my shirt a few times to make it a little less tacky since it was going on fresh hot rod flat black paint. Did get some residue, will let paint dry and hopefully good 'ol prep solve will clean it up. MP

[AndyW]

Eakkkk tank looks great hope it cleans up easy.

[maxxpaane]

Me too lol!! MP