IWATA HP-C Plus

[PonderThis]

Ok I have read every post I can find about cleaning my AB. I have been flushing with water before I put my AB down fo break. I also have the tiny cleaning brushes which I use when I am finished for the day. I think I have been cleaning it right, However, right now when ever I press down for air only I still get paint. I have cleaned , re cleaned the AB, checked the needle chuck and all apears to be in correct position and condition, what am I over looking?


JC

[Steelhorse]

JC...are ya sure you got your needle seated all the way in the noz? insert the needle till it stops, then give it a slight spin between your fingers and tighten down the locking nut. if that doesn't work you may have some dried paint in the noz preventing the needle from seating properly???

[PonderThis]

I checked that again, the needle is seated, only thing I haven't done is taken a hammer and tapped it in lol. The nozzle is so small how am I to get paint out of it. I held it up to the light and can see through it. Not sure what else to do?


JC

[Steelhorse]

grab the lock nut and pull the needle back. This will allow ya to get the needle further back than pulling back on your trigger. Hit the air and blast a lot of water through it. I there is a booger in there it may come out.

[PonderThis]

Copy.... checking for boogers...;)

JC

[PonderThis]

Well Steel looks like the booger check paid off. Thank you. now with my clouded mind I will attempt to do something other than daggers and dots. What exactly I am not sure but I botched the rivets and think I will wait longer before trying those again. Thanks again!

JC

[blinddog 99]

LOL, Ponder you're awesome dude! Love your honesty, and good for you working through the problem. I would have suggested chucking the water based stuff, being an old hot rod type painter, I think I am scared of switching to water base. I have never used anything but enamels and HOK urethanes. Perhaps after your starting point, I will reconsider going through that learning curve. Keep on paintin! Look forward to seeing some of your early work and watching you evolve.

[PonderThis]

Please don't hold your breath! I have the desire but right now the only thing I know for sure is that I like the transparent paints better. I need a task. I spent the last hour with dots and daggers. I found that with the daggers if I keep my hand moving and don't slow down my accuracy is better. As for the dots I am still working with the air pressure and paint viscosity. Just a few more hours before I freak out! :)

[blinddog 99]

The best way is to keep challenging yourself while not getting bored doing practice. I still do dots & daggers, but usually will do them in white on a dark background, then (with my HP-C Plus) drop some silver or orange into the cup and practice outlining the dots and strokes with a pencil line. Hard as hell, but as you said, each one gets a little better.

[bean]

after your done painting run some windex through your gun then finish off with water.

[AirDave]

dog...why don't you take a few photos
(of the white dots, pencil outlines)
and post it as an exercise?

sounds like a good newbie practice thing!

windex, windshiel washer fluid, glass cleaner
all good cleaners
(will not break down Createx though)
....but...
make sure no ammonia.
ammonia free glass cleaners only please.

I think a hammer will break down Createx.
(that and brake fluid!...yes brake fluid)
you can soak parts in brake fluid to remove paint.
don't believe me? drip a little on your car's fender!

[Stang]

This is true about the brake fluid. Although, I wouldn't use it to clean with, to hard to clean off the brake fluid. I would get a can of carburator cleaner. Paint gun cleaner is the same as carburator cleaner, but wear rubber gloves. It really dries out your fingers. Another old tip along the same lines but not reccomended, tranny fluid for fish eyes. I personally spend the time to clean but that's one I've heard the old timers use while painting.

[AirDave]

I have used and seen brake fluid recommended as a parts cleaner.
Soak loose airbrush parts in brake fluid to break "tough" paint that can't be removed otherwise.
Brake fluid does wash cleanly with soap and water.

It really stings in your eyes! but washes out very easily.

Carb cleaner...is extremely corrosive...and I would be afraid of its effects on certain parts and chrome. I know from being a mechanic, that carb cleaner can dissolve some things.
I would agree it is an effective cleaner,
but I would recommend being careful.

And....finally
...does it help stop disease??
or improve vision???
and how do you apply it?? just add it to the water?




(the tranny fluid I mean)
.
.
.

[Whit]

On the brake fluid,,,,,
Great for cleaning off painted plastic sign faces !!!
You can take an old plastic face,,, with an application
of brake fluid and a while soaking,,, you end up with
a clean sheet (usually clear) and great for repaint !!!
Fun to play with as well,,, can make windows with
artwork or lightbox type stuff as well !!!
Never used the tranny fluid other than for a brush oil
after cleaning brushes but in the days of laquer we
used a drop of castor oil for the flo and several drops
to make it pliable,,, could even spray floor mats in same
color as the "Custom" color you applied on the vehicle !!!

[colourshift]

Good grief! Brake fluid? Window Cleaner?
Createx, Deka's now defunct SignAir, AutoAir, ComArt...I have trouble budging this stuff even when it's fresh...Medea's cleaner doesn't seem to want to move it.
But my friends, I have seen the light. For colour change outs, I have a squirt bottle with 50% water, and 50% plain ole Fantastic Cleaner. It moves the fresh stuff...and a little of the not so fresh. Do use a spray off container when using it.
For heavy duty imbedded goo (working with AutoAir a lot, this happens more than I'd like) I use either Createx's Airbrush Restorer, or EZAir's Intense cleaner OR their Oil brush cleaner (I called EZAir, it's virtually the same formula). A little soaking, and a little brush work...voila. Clean. And it's reusable. I keep it in a glass jar with a big enough aperature to put the airbrush in, with the needle backed off, of course.

Oh, by the way...AA has new reducers, the 4010 and 4011. Big help...they were developed as a result of Blake (cross-eyed) McCully's use of the 50/50 fantastic/water mix as a reducer.

Note:
An easy "in bottle" filter for fluid acrylics and AutoAir... cut up a paint strainer 'cap' (you find em in the paint section of lowes or home depot...they look like a shower cap, but actually fit over a can of paint) into 2"x2" squares, unscrew cap of AA, ComArt, whatever...place square on bottle opening, screw the cap back on. Instant filter to catch some of the boogers that can show up from time to time. (thanks to Denise St.John of Everett, WA.)

[Primo Customs]

What about Vinegar (Spell?) I use it to strip house paint off of the window hardware for my house. Works great on that, an that is latex base.