AA paint

[Shiva]

I need to paint a piece of glass-priming etc is not the issue..
Using AA paints, can it be 'exposed' to the elements, and be OK, or do I need to get some rattle can UV Clear and put on it -to keep till I can finish it?
I cannot paint it all in 1 setting due to the size and the lack of being able to heat set it properly. Going to put Hardner in it, BTW.

ANYONE painted AA exposed to the elements and what was the results?
Thanks

[JimmyG]

I also would like to hear more on this Shiva...I would think AA being watebased would certainly need be cleared to keep, but I wonder about the clear type....Would "rattle can clear" accept the next layer of AA without fisheyes or such....?

Not a problem if using 1-shot or urethanes, but I don't think those would give as nice transparency (if desired) as would AA...

Hope to see others input also....

[AndyW]

Heard you can rattles can clear no probs, then go back scuff the clear and carry on, but I ain't an expert and still picking bits up, this was gained from discussion on on going work on a helmet, where folk have come back for more art.

[draggin81]

I used a few different rattle can clears over AA. I've had the best results with Krylon. Whatever you do, stay away from the "HOK" rattle can stuff you can get at Walmart. Every time I've used it it cause crazing all the way down to the substrate.
You can leave it uncleared if it's not going to be exposed to the elements between sessions, but I definitely wouldn't leave it unprotected if it is.

[Shiva]

Krylon makes a rattle can UV protectorant clear, was thinking of using that for the between coats.. NOT CHEAP, but its available.

[draggin81]

Depending on what AA paints you used and just how harsh of elements it's going to be exposed to, you might be able to get away with the regular Krylon clear.
Another factor would be how long the piece is intended to last.
MOST of the AA colors have pretty good lightfastness ratings, but the fluorecent and especially the candies will fade out pretty fast.
You've got my curiosoty piqued, though. What is it that you're doing, and how are you priming?

[Shiva]

rear window of a car, the glass. It might take me a 'few' days to finish the picture completly..
using white satin Krylon Fusion as the 'primer', then put down the normal white base coat AA

do NOT have a garage, so thats my problem as far as completing it super fast and keeping it unexposed'.

Krylon makes a UV clearcoat-$10 a rattle can that I was going to top coat it with for the moment.
but, could not see doing a color/s, then getting interrupted and clear coating for the moment, then come back and trying to pick up the work OVER the clear coat, and continuing on.
Understand that certain colors are not light fast, but can avoid them as they are not needed.

[Whit]

Automotive glass can be tricky at times,,,
I've had probs in the past with 1-shot,,,
same paint on a storefront window holds,,
lay it on automotive glass,,,, pops off !!!
Good Luck on it,, and keep us posted !!!

[Shiva]

let me think.. store front glass vs car glass-whats different?
CAR WASH? HOT WAX??? I dont take chances.


so I take dewaxer to the car glass , but the VERY first is Fantastic cleaner, has a tad bit of certain heavy duty glass cleaner that if concentrated enough will etch glass.. was told this by a custom car guy- he takes paper towels and soaks them in Fantastic Cleaner and leaves them on the glass for a bit, ever so slightly gives it a 'tooth'.

[Shiva]

see the attached for the project