Automotive Clear Coat paint types...?

[JimmyG]

What are y'all using for final clear coats? I'm way out of the info loop...
For example, airbrush work with waterbase (what brand) paints on auto enamel finish metal (and like baked enamel aluminum), 1-shot line brushwork, and premium vinyl decal, all overcoated with clear coat automotive type....?...Wow that sounds complicated.....

How about what kind of auto clear coats can be sprayed over premium vinyl decals....?

I think I originally put this in another forum section....hehehe...please pardon the newbie.....:)

[Clem]

I really couldn't tell you anything about the right stuff to use. I did do some looking with the search for some posts but I didn't find them. Before we moved there was a couple posts on the subject but I guess we didn't get them moved over here.

Sorry I couldn't be of help.

Clem

[JimmyG]

Thanks Clem....being newbe here I'm still figuring out where to ask things and in which place....
So.....what clear coats are you guys using.....?

[blinddog 99]

Jimmy, I use HOK UC-35, and I like it, I haven't really used many others with as much success. I have never used it to spray over vinyls. Steven is the expert here, I also want to try the Matrix.

[Whit]

I can vouch for the Matrix,,, good stuff !!!
Jimmy,,, I use the Matrix 2 stage (catalyst)
over my premium signs (charge accordingly)
for the longevity and vandal factors !!!
Goes over vinyl as regular as other enamels
after a couple days dry time !!
Just hit a tack coat before laying a finish
coat !!! Tack coat,,, 2 hard coats gives
a good result for me,,, might try experimenting
to find a comfort zone !!!
Good Luck on it !!!
BTW,,,
I've got some calendared vinyl under the clear
that's still in good shape after about 5 yrs an
still has plenty of life left in it,,, no sign of age !!!
Got one in a city park,,, tar remover gets graffiti
and markers off,,, almost on a reg basis !!!
-
Forgot,,,
HDU is perfect for this stuff,,, just throw a couple
of good coats over your enamels and extend the
life of the board considerably,,, no oxidation !!!
WEAR A RESPIRATOR WHEN SPRAYING

[Skids]

HA! Whit, NOW i see why you were givin me hell about the graffiti!!

[JimmyG]

Thank y'all for the Matrix tips...I've since been able to find all my supply links for that.....before this been using PPG and such locally....
Gettin'n geared for a project first of next year....need'n to clear coat over vinyl decals on hand painted and airbrush sprayed background elements.....I'm research level here, it's all progress....
Thanks for input for sure......

[Skids]

good luck withit Jimmy...keep us posted

[Jay Horton's Private Shop]

Hey Jimmy G,

I used to be from Georgia now I'm up-North in Florida ( you know what I mean).

Steven and Whit ain't kidding about the Matrix MS 42. It's the stuff that killed Elvis. Watch the fast hardener MH42 though. It can pop like crazy on a hot humid day/night if you dump the coals to it. I like the MH005 activator which is their regular activator. I seem to get the best gloss out of it by adding approximately 5% more MH005 to the mix. I just started using the Euroclear AG40 and that stuff is also killer. Super shine. Either one is bad to the bone.
I'm using a NR95 (1.3) at about 18psi at the handle, with about 1/2 to 3/4 pull and I shoot it about 4-6 inches parallel off the surface. I shoot the first coat med. wet wait 20 minutes, then I shoot the 2nd coat. I deviate a little and shoot a 3rd. I shoot the 2nd and 3rd coats like they were the finish coats. I give about 30 minutes between coat 2 and 3. I have shot up to 6 coats but, you really have to watch the window between coats. I roughly double the time between coats when I go above 3 and I use a timer in the booth. Call or e-mail the Matrix folks and ask for your local rep. That's what I did. It's worth the investment in time. http://www.matrixsystem.com/productcatalog.html

Later Jay

[JimmyG]

Thanks Jay for the excellent specifics....did you meanMH43 fast hardener for the MS42 clear? I sure don't need the superfast pop with our heat and humidity, maybe OK in winter?
I'm gonna do airdry and the MS42 specs say 8-24 hours air dry, so I'm wondering maybe go with MS20 high solids or MS52 medium solids with the MH005 catalyist for quicker air dry set....What do ya think on that?
Thanks especially for the tips on shoot timing.....that will surely help getting started with new to me paint....I'm thinking that will also help "timing" fall in place from past used other brands....and yeah I remember some critical timing from past scewups....

[JimmyG]

Thank you Steven...that helps explain even more...I'll try the MS42.

[Whit]

Thanks for the initial question Jimmy,,,,,
I think there's info here we can all benifit from !!!
I know I just learned a bit of useful info !!!
Thanks Steven !!!

[JimmyG]

AirDave mentioned using this as a method to prevent paint bleed under fine line tape (or mask).....I have in past used 1-Shot clear under 1-Shot paints with good results.....

I am assuming "interclear" to maybe be a "mixing clear" (?) specific to the type paint being used for other colors of the job....Can someone elaborate and maybe tell some brand names or if there is an "interclear" that will work with a variety of paint types?

Also for now (until I can stock up on some HOK or similar) I am going to be using 1-Shot for practice on airbrush combining masking, striping, and hand lettering....Will the MS42 clear over 1-Shot well and how long should I let the 1-shot dry before clear coat?

Thanks much for all suggestions.....

[Skids]

CAREFUL clearing over one-shot......i have used it airbrushing and used automotive reducers and hardeners and it did fine with the corrosponding clear, but i think we're off the map here matey! here be monsters! (potencially)

[Kirk]

Where can I buy the Matrix products, is it mail order?
Thanks,
Kirk

[Pepe Custom]

I have been using HoK UC35 with the KU100 catalyst instead of the HoK specified catalyst. That was recommended to me directly from Jon Kosmoski. This has been working out perfectly for me since they discontinued the UC1. I have also had good results with Montana, PPG and Dupont products.

[blinddog 99]

Hey Pepe, have they also discontinued the KU-70 reducer, or just renamed it? I was running low and tried to order some today, couldn't find it listed anywhere, so I ordered RU-311 instead, I hope its the same. The KU-70 was my good luck charm with UC35 reduction...

[Pepe Custom]

I am not familiar with KU70 however I do believe that anything with the prefix "KU" is a urethane catalyst and not a reducer. I reduce my UC35 with RU310 but I need as fast of a reducer as I can find up here. I use 2 parts UC35 to one part of KU100 and anywhere from one full part RU310 (which equates to 25% of the total solution) to a larger part which would be closer to 30% depending on the temperature and humidity. Hope this helps.

[SHOLZ]

Hi Jimmy, I tried almost every clear coat made. So far what I've found to work the all-around-best for show finishes is Matrix MS-42.
Yup, Killer stuff that 42 is. Doesn't take that long to figure out how to lay it on. Some say it's too thick to spray and they splash a bit of reducer in it but thick is just the way I like it. Flows out great with very little if any orange peel. It does take a long time to dry but has excellent gloss retention.

[Ultra Al]

I will have to give the Matrix a try as it is available here locally. I hve been useing (also available locally) X-otic sun bloct final clear, which I personally like better than HOK UC35, and for smaller jobs PPG 3000 which also goes down like glass and you can be buffing it in a matter of hours. AL

[Stang]

ELVIS LIVES
I like the HOK and also use PPG 3000 and 4000

[Cabrera]

Hi Jimmy! I would say you can use most ofthe Clear out the at Market today.
But one Thing I Must recommend which I thin you know! whatever clear you use make sure to use the same Hardenes in the 1 SHOT Paint or when you shot the Clear Jut Dust it and let sit for 15 minutes then go Back and shot another coat AND LET SIT AGAIN.otherwise you will end up with wrinkles on the 1Shot PAINT and will mess you art work up
I use PPG DCU2042 WITH DCX61 Hardener and the Reducer DT870.
I hope this help.

[PinWerk]

i use two differen't clears.. hok uc35 or autobody masters urethane clear, which the autobody type seems to love clearing over 1 shot enamels... did a mailbox.. but the key thing i did when i striped with 1 shot thin with no brand paint thinner.. i let it dry 24 hours.. . wet sand whole thing 2000 grit n then clear it with autobody urethane clear.. . seems to love it like that.. hadn't tried the 1 shot under hok clear.. figured it'll pop, i hear to much talk about that.
right now im stuck on the hok 35 for big projects or cycles... dont know how it works over vinyl tho.. some has success using money (bills) under the clear, thats another story there..hehee

[Kirk]

Hey Whit,
Do you have to scuff the vinyl before clear coating
or just clean it off good?
Thanks,
Kirk

[Kirk]

Has anyone here used Matrix MS-47?
We use Dupont G2-4700 at work and
this looks to be the Matrix equivalent.
Thanks,
Kirk

[Kirk]

Steven,
I use 4700 at work, auto body repair. Buffs good if you get on it
right away and I have seen NO dieback which is good. I'm painting
the sides of my car and wanted to use the MS-47 since it should
be comaprable to 4700 and is much cheaper. I don't even know if I can buy Matrix stuff as there is no jobber in my area. Do you know of any place
I can get mail order? The MS-42 clear sound like it works really well.
Thanks,
Kirk

[Kirk]

I'm located in Davenport, Iowa. If they won't sell to me direct I can go
through a friends body shop in town.
Thanks,
Kirk

[chemojay]

thanks for the info from everyone in this thread. its been a great read.

Is there a clearcoat that doesn't have UV blockers?

Example: I am painting a cpu case with a base color/colors and going to use Clearneon over the base for glow under blacklight. I would guess that using a clear with UV blockers would completely kill the effect being the Clearneon is UV reactive paint.

[JimmyG]

Is there a clearcoat that doesn't have UV blockers?

Example: I am painting a cpu case with a base color/colors and going to use Clearneon over the base for glow under blacklight. I would guess that using a clear with UV blockers would completely kill the effect being the Clearneon is UV reactive paint.
What a good question ChemoJay......I look forward to some answers also....

Whew...and what a bump, reminds me of how much I have learned here at airbushtech in 2 years, and can't answer the question because I haven't tried it......
I can try and add some info links tho.....be back to ya on that.....

EDIT: ChemoJay I copied your post here to a new thread to try get you more reply answers.....
http://www.airbrushtech.info/AIRBRUSH/forum/showthread.php?t=9405

[colourshift]

I know for a fact that the Shop Line Plus bottom of the barrel clear coat does NOT have any UV solids in it. (PPG)...
so yeah, there's stuff out there like that. Probably in other brands as well, I'd start thinkin about contacting several techhies specifically to the brand you're thinking of using - off their web site.

Users info is great, but I always like to back it up with techhie stuff. Sometimes ya never know...

Did anyone ever answer your question about inner coat clears Jimmy? you were correct, it's a "basecoat" clear - something you mix in for transparency....same animal you're using as a "binder" for candies.

[REDTAIL]

i live in orange county so california does any one know were i can get the matrix i would like to try it or at least mail order it

JIM

[knucklehead]

Hey Jimmy, you may also want to look at SPI, out of Atlanta, best clear I've ever used http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/homepage.htm

[Skids]

WOW Jimmy...you've come a long way baby!

I've never concidered that the UV protectors in the clear might kill the blacklight effect! Inquiring minds wanna know!

[JimmyG]

Hey Jimmy, you may also want to look at SPI, out of Atlanta, best clear I've ever used http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/homepage.htm

Thanks for the link Knuckle....I'll be looking into that further....

[REDTAIL]

hey STEVE the ms 42 not legal in California but when i talked to matrix they called me great service he recommended AG-40LV have you tried that clear and how well does it work it comes in a 7 litre kit there a MS 20 clear have you tried that ?

JIM

[0patience]

The clear I use usually depends on what I am doing.
For a lot of customs, I tend to like products from HOK, Kustom Shop and Matrix.

For low budget jobs, I like to use an inexpensive clear from Paintforcars.com called Trinity Ultra Xtreme clear. The trinity clear is rediculous cheap and flows pretty good.
It also works well for practice stuff that I don't want to waste premium clear on, but want the affect.

Just my 2 cents.

[PAULYBOY]

I have 2 great books on pinstriping by Alan Johnson and Herb Martinez. They both talk about clearing over one shot, specifically their lettering enamels, without using a hardener in them. Their both adamant in their caution against using too heavy a coat of clear, and one of them suggests spraying a few light mist coats to seal the paint in first, so it doesn't run, sag and melt into the clear.

[lookinglasss]

What are y'all using for final clear coats? I'm way out of the info loop...
For example, airbrush work with waterbase (what brand) paints on auto enamel finish metal (and like baked enamel aluminum), 1-shot line brushwork, and premium vinyl decal, all overcoated with clear coat automotive type....?...Wow that sounds complicated.....

How about what kind of auto clear coats can be sprayed over premium vinyl decals....?

I think I originally put this in another forum section....hehehe...please pardon the newbie.....:)

Hi all--what a cool thread. My head has been swimming over clear coats, because I'm w/ Jimmy....I don't always need to clear the same TYPE of paint. More over, I frequently have to make water base, oil base and solvent base work together! Can anyone confirm if my guess is right on this (relating to Jimmy's original question):
If your base artwork is water based acrylic, you need to clear with solvent based clear. Lacquers will make the water based artwork "mushy" and VERY LONG DRYING. I restore fine art and pottery and sometimes the color range of what I'm working on requires the use of BOTH water base and oil base paints...to get the "not just restored" effect.

[AndyW]

Firstly welcome to ABTech, you should hit up the intro section an fill us in a little about yourself.

Others more in the know will no doubt put you straight, however, I use waterbased acrylics, Medea and Etac and hit them with an automotive rattle can acrylic clear.