yet another noob ?

[Popshocker]

Is it ok to use acetone to clean ma brushes?

[redanner]

Don't soak the airbrushes in it! Just spray through it! I then spray water afterwards! Denatured Alcohol would be a better choice!

[Popshocker]

Thank you. Where can i get that!

[draggin81]

Any hardware store should have it. It's usually near the other paint thinners and turpentine and that stuff.
Be careful using either of these. Thier fumes are VERY flamable, and acetone in particluar is known for "spontanious combustion". Of the two, I'd go with the alcohol.

[Shiva]

plus in SOME PLACES, asking for acetone will get you VERY funny looks, PLUS a required look see at your drivers license..

[BR@VO]

I picked mine up at lowes, Home Depot and also I saw it the other day at walmart

[Popshocker]

Well the company i work for has a crap load of acetone. Thats whay i was askin. They use it to clean molds and such. I could get it for free. haha and im all about free!! haha

[Full Blast]

Pop. If your just using acrylics why even use acetone? soapy water, maybe some alcohal... that is IF your only using acrylics. :)

:tee:

[Popshocker]

Pop. If your just using acrylics why even use acetone? soapy water, maybe some alcohal... that is IF your only using acrylics. :)

:tee:

I am. I was just refering to like a deep clean. I noticed the other day that paint is getting in the trigger area. Is that from lifting back on the brush? I also use pipe cleaners to clean with. Is that smart? And as for the bees wax/ toilet ring.. is the a proper way to apply them to the threads of the caps?

I know these questions might sound lame but i will never know if i dont ask. haha

[Full Blast]

YEa no such thing as lame questions.... Well almost anyway... haaa haaa Pipe cleaners are fine. You may want to invest in a brush set. Cleaning brush's that is. The VL's arent back sealed, if memory serves me right. So from time to time you'll get paint behind the seal. No biggey just clean it. Most folks here would probably have a fit at the shape I keep my guns in.... haaa haaa well cept for Whit I think. haaa haaa And as for the bees wax I would think only on the threads around the head. to keep air from leaking. Nothing like blowing bubbles out the side of your airbrush! Weeeeeeeeeee Kiddy party time! haahaaa haaaa

[Popshocker]

Haha i got me one of those how to Ab vids a few months ago. Never said anything about the head seal. lol Just load and go. But with the kick ass forum i find the help i want. haha

[fontgeek]

You need to be careful in what you use for cleaning, both in tools and in solvents.
Using the wrong solvents can cause all kinds of problems, Some can cause any paint residue to go to a gummy rubber like texture. Then it is a real nightmare to get out. Always use the reccomended cleaner for your particular paint whenever possible. Normal thorough cleaning should keep your aibrush in good shape. In normal spraying, you shouldn't be getting any paint back in the trigger area. Having paint there can cause all kinds of problems, it can dry and harden, which is bad enough on it's own, but it can also get down into the airvalve assembly, and that area was never meant to be exposed to paint, let alone the solvents you would use to clean out the paint. Brushes like the Paasche VL don't have Teflon packing, so the use of harsh solvents can damage or destroy the packing, seals, O-rings, etc. Try to avoid the use of pipe cleaners if you can, the shaft on them is steel, which can scratch or chip the chrome plated brass of the airbrush body. If you are cleaning out your brush after you paint on a daily basis, then you probably won't need much more than Q-tips, toothpicks, and some basic brushes. Dome ended bottle brushes work great for cups, jars, etc., while smaller (I mean tiny) bottle brushes work great for cleaning pipes, feeder tubes, etc. Look for brushes that have nylon bristles and stainless steel handles. The rule of thumb is to use the mildest and safest solvents you can get away with, they are safer for you, your airbrush, and your environment. The small daily cleanings are much easier on you and your airbrush than the massive jobs of cleaning up your brush once a year whether it needs it or not.

Try to avoid submerging your airbrush if at all possible, submerging your whole airbrush exposes the airvalve assembly and the trigger area to all kinds of solvents and debris those areas were never meant to be exposed to, and getting them cleaned out and repaired afterwords is a pain in the butt.

Try to avoid having to pull your needle back through the packing or seals if it is stuck or packed with gunk. That gunk acts like a rasp on the seals or packing, and by forcing it back through the packing, you basically rip or ream a new hole in the packing, while it may get your needle out of the brush, it means that the packing won't seal as tightly any more, which means more paint coming back into the trigger area, and possibly into the airvalve assembly too. Not good.

[redanner]

You need to be careful in what you use for cleaning, both in tools and in solvents.
Using the wrong solvents can cause all kinds of problems, Some can cause any paint residue to go to a gummy rubber like texture. Then it is a real nightmare to get out. Always use the reccomended cleaner for your particular paint whenever possible. Normal thorough cleaning should keep your aibrush in good shape. In normal spraying, you shouldn't be getting any paint back in the trigger area. Having paint there can cause all kinds of problems, it can dry and harden, which is bad enough on it's own, but it can also get down into the airvalve assembly, and that area was never meant to be exposed to paint, let alone the solvents you would use to clean out the paint. Brushes like the Paasche VL don't have Teflon packing, so the use of harsh solvents can damage or destroy the packing, seals, O-rings, etc. Try to avoid the use of pipe cleaners if you can, the shaft on them is steel, which can scratch or chip the chrome plated brass of the airbrush body. If you are cleaning out your brush after you paint on a daily basis, then you probably won't need much more than Q-tips, toothpicks, and some basic brushes. Dome ended bottle brushes work great for cups, jars, etc., while smaller (I mean tiny) bottle brushes work great for cleaning pipes, feeder tubes, etc. Look for brushes that have nylon bristles and stainless steel handles. The rule of thumb is to use the mildest and safest solvents you can get away with, they are safer for you, your airbrush, and your environment. The small daily cleanings are much easier on you and your airbrush than the massive jobs of cleaning up your brush once a year whether it needs it or not.

Try to avoid submerging your airbrush if at all possible, submerging your whole airbrush exposes the airvalve assembly and the trigger area to all kinds of solvents and debris those areas were never meant to be exposed to, and getting them cleaned out and repaired afterwords is a pain in the butt.

Try to avoid having to pull your needle back through the packing or seals if it is stuck or packed with gunk. That gunk acts like a rasp on the seals or packing, and by forcing it back through the packing, you basically rip or ream a new hole in the packing, while it may get your needle out of the brush, it means that the packing won't seal as tightly any more, which means more paint coming back into the trigger area, and possibly into the airvalve assembly too. Not good.

Yea I would like to say if you go to the dental section at Wal-Mart you will find these type of brushes for teeth! I went to a hobby shop and bought tiny aluminum stock rods! slide the brush in the tiny holes and crimped the end!

[Popshocker]

God so much to learn. Thank you all!

[Bravo_Delta_187]

I use acrylic paint i use hot water then when i do a deep clean ( say every four to five paints used ) i use alcohol

correct me if i'm wrong i'm still a noob myself