How much and how often?

[gphood]

I'm currently applying a dust coat and then a good solid coat of lacquer, leaving it overnight and then using a block with 1200 grit paper to wetflat masking edges and imperfections before repeating the process until it's nice and smooth, followed by a final coat which I wet flat with increasingly fine paper and then polish.

I read Steven's tutorial on colour sanding and it looked like he'd already applied all the clear he was going to before starting to flat back. If that's the case then I'd like to go down that route as well. To apply multiple clearcoats, what are the dos and don'ts? Are there any risks putting so much on at one time? How long should I wait between coats?

Also, is there a length of time after clearcoating where you lose the ability to get a really good finish - i.e. the lacquer has hardened up too much?

Any info would be really helpful.

All the best

[Whit]

Back when laquer was king,,,
after the depth of clear was achived
we used to colorsand with 800 wet,,,
then apply a final coat mixed 2 to 1 !!!
2 (slow thinner) to 1 paint,,, low pressure
at the gun,,, walk around it twice n quit !!!
Give a couple a days to dry,,, buff with
polish was all that was needed !!!
Extra care needed because with the low
pressure,, you're stacking paint,,, so be
aware of this to avoid sags !!!
This does not work on uro's !!!

[gphood]

Back when laquer was king,,,
after the depth of clear was achived
we used to colorsand with 800 wet,,,
then apply a final coat mixed 2 to 1 !!!
2 (slow thinner) to 1 paint,,, low pressure
at the gun,,, walk around it twice n quit !!!
Give a couple a days to dry,,, buff with
polish was all that was needed !!!
Extra care needed because with the low
pressure,, you're stacking paint,,, so be
aware of this to avoid sags !!!
This does not work on uro's !!!

Thanks for that Whit. Did you get your required depth of clear in one step or build it up as I do currently? I'm currently using a DuPont clear that's 2 to 1 anyway. They're bringing in more high solids for environmental reasons (i.e. not so much spraying time). I do have trouble with sags and runs - not as bad as it used to be but every so often I'll have a really bad day and it'll look like the bath has spilt over down the side of my work :(

All the best

[Primo Customs]

I would say at least 3 coats to hide the tape line or when you sand it you will break the edges.. Make sure there is no Enamel or broken urathane on that car,, Laquer will lift of you put it on to wet.... Watch out!!!

[gphood]

I would say at least 3 coats to hide the tape line or when you sand it you will break the edges.. Make sure there is no Enamel or broken urathane on that car,, Laquer will lift of you put it on to wet.... Watch out!!!

Thanks Rick

What's the maximum number of lacquer coats you would apply in one session - assuming you leave the previous coat long enough to go off so you don't get sags or runs with the build-up?

[Ultra Al]

Just curious as to why you are still using lacquer? Is it a restoration? The uros are more durable. I dont lacquer is even available around here. AL

[gphood]

Just curious as to why you are still using lacquer? Is it a restoration? The uros are more durable. I dont lacquer is even available around here. AL

When I say lacquer I mean clearcoat. Different terms used in the UK as opposed to the US? Acrylic is the norm but HoK uros are available here, just not as easy to get hold of.

[ABD]

When I say lacquer I mean clearcoat. Different terms used in the UK as opposed to the US? Acrylic is the norm but HoK uros are available here, just not as easy to get hold of.

I was wondering if it was a just a different term you were using.....Laq, clear, varnish, haha, hard to tell sometimes....I wasn't gonna touch answering a Laq question.

But Clear uros..I can tackle a bit.......I never lay down more than 3 coats at one session...1 light tac coat, second not quite wet but still full coverage..Third wet.. (allowing proper flash times of course)
...I see your using 1200 to level with...Might work fine..But i like more of a tooth..I use 600 to level graphics....I wouldn't trust applying new clear on 1200, but it may be just me??

Once everything is level, repeat the clear process..Hope that makes sense for ya?

[gphood]

[QUOTE=ABD;8923]
...I see your using 1200 to level with...Might work fine..But i like more of a tooth..I use 600 to level graphics....I wouldn't trust applying new clear on 1200, but it may be just me??
QUOTE]

Thanks for all your tips - all very gratefully received. I've been advised that 1200 does provide a good enough key for further lacquer - even finer in fact. No problems have arisen so far (fingers crossed) but I will have a go with coarser paper for graphics. I just keep rubbing through though, which is why I've tender to steer clear of courser paper up to now for this stage of the job.

[ABD]

[QUOTE=ABD;8923]
...I see your using 1200 to level with...Might work fine..But i like more of a tooth..I use 600 to level graphics....I wouldn't trust applying new clear on 1200, but it may be just me??
QUOTE]

Thanks for all your tips - all very gratefully received. I've been advised that 1200 does provide a good enough key for further lacquer - even finer in fact. No problems have arisen so far (fingers crossed) but I will have a go with coarser paper for graphics. I just keep rubbing through though, which is why I've tender to steer clear of courser paper up to now for this stage of the job.

One thing i do to help control rubbing threw. (assuming yer wetsanding) Is drying yer surface often...When everythings wet, it's really hard to see what's going on...Stop and wipe it down quit a bit, helps to see where yer at...Compressed air nearby helps to speed the dry time also...Blast it with air, (blows off most of the water) ..Give it acouple wipes with a paper towel..It'll dry in seconds..Allowing you to check yer progress...Once all the shiny spots are gone yer done.:boogie:

[PinWerk]

i started off in the past on lacquers.. although alot shys from it now days but it has its own special place.. i've heard from old timers u can stack up the layers of lacquer up to li ke 12 or so coats BUT the key thing is window time frame, what they are allowing to flash, i dont know but lacquer dries pretty fast,
if you dont have the right window frame, ur coats WIL:L crack being exsessively thick and other issues.. Bu t if you find out what the window frame is, u can stack it that high and have a high dept in the lacquer. but i do know from quiet a few diferent painters, u gotta know what ur doing to stack that many on there... to make it work ..

[redanner]

PinWerk
I am an old timer and used lacquers for 90% of my work. My time span was 1974 - 1989! I went to an autobody Tech school to learn the basis of knowledge. First of all there are a lot of variables to consider before top coating. 8 coats are the standard level before letting dry before buffing. You must not let the paint dry to long or it will layer when buffing. I usually waited until the paint flashed before putting on another coat (10 min depending on the temp). Also I painted wet so the paint would flow and not have orange peel. In the summer slow drying thinner helps but can also reach down and pull filler scratches to the top. Even after it has been buffed. You see Lacquer takes time for the solvents to come to the top and be truly dry. This information is just scratching the surface on Lacquers. I wish I could give it all to right at this time. It would take a small book.

redanner
lost Planet Airman

[redanner]

PinWerk
I am an old timer and used lacquers for 90% of my work. My time span was 1974 - 1989! I went to an autobody Tech school to learn the basis of knowledge. First of all there are a lot of variables to consider before top coating. 8 coats are the standard level before letting dry before buffing. You must not let the paint dry to long or it will layer when buffing. I usually waited until the paint flashed before putting on another coat (10 min depending on the temp). Also I painted wet so the paint would flow and not have orange peel. In the summer slow drying thinner helps but can also reach down and pull filler scratches to the top. Even after it has been buffed. You see Lacquer takes time for the solvents to come to the top and be truly dry. This information is just scratching the surface on Lacquers. I wish I could give it all to right at this time. It would take a small book.

redanner
lost Planet Airman

I'm sorry this should be addressed gphood not PinWerk