First job: helmet restoration

[mutant]

Hi everyone,

My very first paint job is for a friend who's come by a knackered old helmet that he wants restored and painted in the style of Ayrton Senna for display purposes only. The helmet is quite badly damaged and I need a bit of advice for where to begin, and well, everything really!

I've never done anything like this before, to be honest, I never intended working on old helmets, so I hadn't even considered this scenario, but I couldn't turn down my first official job offer, could I?

I've started sanding down with some 240 wet and dry and a sanding block (don't ask why - just what I had) but I think I need some professional advice here. What should I be using to sand with, how long does the sanding take, should I sand the chips right out, what comes after that? There's quite a big lump missing from around the chin area, how best can I deal with that?

I'll try and attach a photo so you can see what I'm dealing with, but no promises it'll work.

I got a lot of questions people - someone please help!

- mutant

[ABD]

Heya Mutant..yer on the right track.

1st I'd say loose the sanding block..Just hold the paper in yer hand..You'll feel what needs to be sanded better..it goes from rough to smooth (gliding feeling) as you sand....Plus a block wont curve as well as yer hand..It'll get all the spots better.

I put a pic below showing what's good and bad....The "good" part is what it should look like..All dull and scratched up..Where the bad arrow is..All those spots that still have shine to them need to be sanded better....The entire helmet should look like where the "good" arrow is..

As far as the nicks and dings...If you can catch a finger nail in one (meaning it's deep) you'll have to apply some Bondo type filler in the gouges...Sand it smooth once cured.....If they're just scratches you can get away with about 3-4 coats of Primer and wetsanding flat when that cures.....I've done both methods on some pretty nasty helmets..You can make it look new fairly easy.

Hope that helps a bit:partyalone:

[SmittyDidIt]

For the really deep gouges and scratches you'll more than likely want to go with Bondo, working the two parts (filler and hardner) just like you would on an auto body. For scratches I would advise using Bondo putty filler. This is good for uses in filling shallow scratches and is usually applied as a final coat over the Bondo filler. For both of these, basically fill the areas that need repair and then sculpt them back to the contours of the helmet. Don't try and do it all in one coat, things usually come out smoother if you apply several thinner coats than one thick one. I like to use the putty because it adheres to most surfaces and can be wet sanded once dry. Good Luck!

[SmittyDidIt]

I also found this online and should be a good guide to help you along

http://www.ehow.com/how_2149826_body-filler-auto-body-repair.html

Again Good Luck:thumbsup:

[Stang]

If it was my first time and you're basically practicing and it is only for display. If it wasn't sisplay I don't know how much you would get away with for DOT purposes. The missing chunk: tape up a couple paint sticks put some 142? Fusor on one stick and sandwich it over the missing piece with a vise grip. I would also tear it all apart just for the experience. Sand it all down with 80, fix the deep gouges and prime it all. If it isn't that bad wet sand with 400. For the rivets I use buck rivets with a small washer. A buck rivet is an aluminum rivet that is smashed with an air hammer and dolly. If you don't have the equipment for that, a truck trailer repair place might be able to help ya. They also use em on airplanes. Hope that makes sense. I don't explain myself real well. I might be able to explain better around 2am. I get a lot smarter then.

[air_fx]

I highly recommend that you concider cutting the chin straps off......I might even go as far as grinding out the rivets and filling in the holes.....its a great way to keep someone from trying to wear it as a good helmet at some point in the future....you sure don't want anybody puttin that old helmet on and goin for a bike ride.....you could be held liable should the wearer have an accident and the helmet fails.

A helmet in that bad of shape should no longer be considered a safety device.....its long past that....it would make a great display helmet but to help cover your rear, you might even concider adding the words "for display only" into the design just as added insurance.

[redanner]

I concur with the other fellows! The only thing I would add is a sanding block can cause flat spots on a small round object! You could get a sanding sponge if you don't like the bare hands it will curve to the helmet! Also I would try to feather out rock chips before just filling them! Use 80 grit to feather the chips out! If ya don't want to feather them take 80 grit sand paper and try to get a fresh looking gouge so the filler will have a good fresh surface to adhere to!

[sharonsstudio]

:signyeahthat: I would definately work in for display only.. for your safety..
I refuse to do old helmets for anybody.. but they are good for practice..

[mutant]

Thanks for the advice guys, I've since got stuck into the sanding properly and hae discovered that most of the damage is confined to the top layer of blue paint and I can easily sand them out. I will try filling the larger holes.

Can anyone recommend a primer to use over my filler and where do I go after that? Do I need to sand any finer before going on to my basecoat?

- mutant

[Cowboy]

As far as the chips Mutant , Id use evercoat polyester filler its a 2 part Poly filler that Mixes like Regular Puddy , But has No Shrinkage Like a lot of the other products out there , & As far as primer I also Use there ( Evercoat ) 2K Uro prime , But it Is Urothane so Ya have ta take Proper safety precautions.

Then Ya need to Sand 500 to 600 Wet grit before you shoot Yer base . BUT if it still has Flaws in it Sand with coarser paper Get the Flaws out Then Reprime if Needed . & Make Sure Its good & clean & Good Luck.