question???

[airdoom]

My friend gave me a metal grill to go on is 73 Beaumont. The part has been sandblasted and primer has been applied on it. My question is Can I put some bundo on the little holes done by the sandblasting without sanding to bare metal or do I have to sand to bare metal the area where I need to put some bundo? I need to fill in the tiny holes and paint black basecoat on it. I know for a fact that I have to applied some primer where Bundo will be added.

[colourshift]

I worked in a body shop for a short time this past year...and these are the facts (jack) as I know em...

With old laquer based filler primer, it used to be the "rule" that you could NOT put bondo over primer (it used to HAVE to go on metal). With urethane 2K primers, this is not the case....It would have been better, overall, if you had the opportunity to apply a little metal glaze (thinner, finer bondo) on the sandblasted part, then have shot it with several coats of filler primer....but alas, this is the situation you have now... So, first question, find out what sort of primer was put on.

Laquer based... you're gonna either ...
A) sand off the primer and apply metal glaze/bondo to the offensive areas or...
B) layer on more primer; after a light sanding with 320 grit (as the first coat of primer has "flashed off" by now, and you would probably benefit from a mechanical adhesion, than relying on just a chemical one) hose the part down with a series of light coats, followed by a heavy one. Let it flash off, and sand to your hearts content.

Urethane based...you could try and fill in the pin holes using a metal glaze, once the piece has been lightly sanded (again, making sure there's good adhesion) and then hit with primer again, just to cover any sanding marks (I usually finish off with a red scotchbrite pad, to make sure the scratches are removed)

[airdoom]

I worked in a body shop for a short time this past year...and these are the facts (jack) as I know em...

With old laquer based filler primer, it used to be the "rule" that you could NOT put bondo over primer (it used to HAVE to go on metal). With urethane 2K primers, this is not the case....It would have been better, overall, if you had the opportunity to apply a little metal glaze (thinner, finer bondo) on the sandblasted part, then have shot it with several coats of filler primer....but alas, this is the situation you have now... So, first question, find out what sort of primer was put on.

Laquer based... you're gonna either ...
A) sand off the primer and apply metal glaze/bondo to the offensive areas or...
B) layer on more primer; after a light sanding with 320 grit (as the first coat of primer has "flashed off" by now, and you would probably benefit from a mechanical adhesion, than relying on just a chemical one) hose the part down with a series of light coats, followed by a heavy one. Let it flash off, and sand to your hearts content.

Urethane based...you could try and fill in the pin holes using a metal glaze, once the piece has been lightly sanded (again, making sure there's good adhesion) and then hit with primer again, just to cover any sanding marks (I usually finish off with a red scotchbrite pad, to make sure the scratches are removed)

Is there a way to know which kind of primer is used without asking the guy who did it. The primer is white i don't know if it helps. Plus the pin holes are about 2mm x 2mm and probably 2mm deep, too big to fill in with primer. I'm a little confused in what to do since the pinhole are in the corner edge really hard to get area and will be an hasle to strip the primer.

[draggin81]

I'm not sure if this works on primer, but it works on paint.

Find a small, inconspicous area on the bumper that has the primer on it. Put some laq thinner on a rag, and rub that area. If, when you stop rubbing, there's primer color on the rag, it lacquer. If not, then chances are about 99% is urethane (there are a few other coatings out there that don't respond to laq thinner, but I've never heard of any of them being used in automotive)

[Cowboy]

Doom, Get You some evercoat 2 part polyester filler, Mixes Like Bondo . But Easier to sand & has zero Shrinkage . Just scuff & clean the area first before putting it on . Just dont mix up to much at a time Cuz it Kicks Quick. Good luck.

[airdoom]

cowbow evercoat2 can it be apply on the primer

[Cowboy]

YesSir, I,ve done it For Years , Its just gotta be Real clean & No dust or Nastys in the Pinholes .

[ABD]

Only issue I'd have is you said you don't know what kinda primer is on there.....Todays Uros I'd sand the spots with some 200 and then go to Bondo'ing...But if it's Laq Primer, I'd try to get it off maybe with an aircraft stripper...Laq Primer shrinks as it cures....Unless it's been on there for years so you know it's perfect I wouldn't trust it.

Sorry I don't know any way to tell the diff between the two by looking at the cured results....But When in doubt, get rid of the old and start with what you know will work, is my rule..haha!

[airdoom]

Dell.
Aircraft stripper...never heard of it. How it works?

[ABD]

Dell.
Aircraft stripper...never heard of it. How it works?

It's a chemical...A gooey mess really...You brush it on..Usually need rubber gloves and better to be outside or in a crazy ventilated place...Let it sit and it'll boil/bubble the old paint right off.....Best way to strip anything that you can't reach to sand IMO...Here's a link to some:)

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=18788&itemType=PRODUCT

[airdoom]

where do they sell this? At a regular auto paint supply store... Sorry but the dawn firewell at the job is blocking you're link. will have to wait tonight when day job done

[ABD]

where do they sell this? At a regular auto paint supply store... Sorry but the dawn firewell at the job is blocking you're link. will have to wait tonight when day job done

Yup most auto part stores have it....I can get it local and I live in the woods..So I'm sure most everyone else can....There are different grades of the stuff...If you ask for stripper ya might get anything..Might not be strong enough to touch the old paint....Aircraft stripper has always been strong enough to do whatever I wanted it to.

[airdoom]

thanks dell,

Cowboy and Ima I don't know yet where I 'm going to go with this one, you're way just clean the surface and applied evercoat2 if i'm not mistaken

[airdoom]

went to see evercoat site which one to choose????there is lots to choose from

[ABD]

I don't know yet where I 'm going to go with this one, you're way just clean the surface and applied evercoat2 if i'm not mistaken

By all means like CB and Ima said...If you trust the Primer...Just sand/scuff it all real good..(I like to go aggressive with sanding..80 to 200 grit or so)..Clean the heck out of it...Make sure the dust gets out of those pin holes!!....Then fill em with yer bondo.

[airdoom]

Dell
CB was talking about some evercoat2 I found evercoat gold,extreme....and lots more which one to choose. any ideas. I didn't see evercoat 2 ???

[redanner]

I worked in a body shop for a short time this past year...and these are the facts (jack) as I know em...

With old laquer based filler primer, it used to be the "rule" that you could NOT put bondo over primer (it used to HAVE to go on metal). With urethane 2K primers, this is not the case....It would have been better, overall, if you had the opportunity to apply a little metal glaze (thinner, finer bondo) on the sandblasted part, then have shot it with several coats of filler primer....but alas, this is the situation you have now... So, first question, find out what sort of primer was put on.

Laquer based... you're gonna either ...
A) sand off the primer and apply metal glaze/bondo to the offensive areas or...
B) layer on more primer; after a light sanding with 320 grit (as the first coat of primer has "flashed off" by now, and you would probably benefit from a mechanical adhesion, than relying on just a chemical one) hose the part down with a series of light coats, followed by a heavy one. Let it flash off, and sand to your hearts content.

Urethane based...you could try and fill in the pin holes using a metal glaze, once the piece has been lightly sanded (again, making sure there's good adhesion) and then hit with primer again, just to cover any sanding marks (I usually finish off with a red scotchbrite pad, to make sure the scratches are removed)

I agree with Lynne on this except my ideas come from a year at a Autobody Tech School! I was taught that metal, fiberglass, non-pliable plastic, or even wood if by chance should be ground in the area that body filler is to be used! The grinding scratches give the metal more tooth for the plastic to stick to! But I did my autobody learning from 1974 to 1976 and then quit the business in 1989 so my knowledge may be out dated!

[ABD]

Dell
CB was talking about some evercoat2 I found evercoat gold,extreme....and lots more which one to choose. any ideas. I didn't see evercoat 2 ???

Evercoat is good stuff...Honestly there's like 10 kinds of it though..All have there good points.....I've never heard of "Evercoat 2"...I like "rage" myself..Works great!..There's "Z grip", "metal to metal" "gold extreme" "Eurosoft" "feather fill"...hahaha..Just some off the top of my head..All made by Evercoat.

"Eurosoft glazing putty" is good stuff....The "Rage" is more for major filling...The eurosoft is for pin holes and such....I've used em all with no complaints..

[Cowboy]

Sorry , Doom, I dropped the ball here . What I meant was the evercoat / 2 part Polyester To be mixed with a hardener . I loaned My last new can to My father in law. So I dont have it here to give You the item # but its in a Blue labled can, Bigger around then tall unlike most body fillers , If I can find it I,ll get Exact Number for You . Good luck.

[airdoom]

thanks CB