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View Full Version : fiberglass scoop to metal bonding



wombatgraphix
01-20-2007, 07:25 AM
i know there is the perfect product out there for bonding a fiberglass scoop to a metal hood anyone know what is best to bond the two together with

Mike Alsa Canada
01-20-2007, 10:38 AM
Ok there's a few products out there that will work for this all basically the same just made by different manufactuers... Check this site http://www.lord.com/tabid/3258/Default.aspx the product is called fusor its a 2 part glue and lots of guys are even using this to glue full sized panels together....

Other manufactuers are...Norton Abrasive's Speed Grip, Evercoat's Maxim, Proform ........., 3M........... All these make a two part (usually urethane) adhesive just ask any bodyshop supply store in your area and they should carry one of these brands.

colourshift
01-20-2007, 10:44 AM
Mike - did you know some of the structural components on the new (Not so new now) Ford GT (GT-40) are glued together using a structural adhesive? I think they used 3M. (I was on the design team, doing structural body in white) I was new to adhesives being used in the auto industry (to me everythings usually bolted, screwed, welded , etc), and really surprised. Apparently some of this stuff really holds up to extreme testing, when used with a lighter weight physical attachment. Scoop to hood should be just fine....if he keeps it under warp speed, lol.

Whit
01-20-2007, 10:47 AM
Well,,, this may turn into a long post,, but,,,
I've done it several diff ways trying for longevity !!!
If it's a nonfunctional scoop,,, it's a lot simpler,,,
just poprivet,, mold in ,,, but if it's a functioning
scoop,,, after you cut the opening,, cut some metal
strap the length of the opening and bond (I used JB weld)
to the UNDERSIDE of the opening (for strength) and
make sure it lines up with the flange on the scoop on top
to pop rivet the scoop thru the hood AND metal strap !!!
Laminate with resin under the scoop before the rivets !!!
Then it's just a matter of molding the fiberglass to the
scoop and hood for your final blending in !!!
Grind reasonably smooth and bodyfiller (bondo ??) for
finish work !!!
The metal hood "Flexes",,, the fiberglass does'nt,, that's
the reason for the metal straps to solidify the hood flex
and keep it from cracking out in a short period of time !!!
It took several hoodscoops to figure this out but it works !!!
Good Luck on it !!!
-
PS,,, this is for a smoothed in moulded scoop !!!

PinWerk
01-20-2007, 03:09 PM
sounds like whit has something there..
i've used fusor stuff, when molding ground effects n bumpers to the body of car. 3m makes some stuff, forget what its called, some reason on my car, my own personal reference, i chose to go against molding panels, fear of cracks, thus what i did was build up with fiberglass close to the body and left a separation between the panel n body like fine as a floss string. i dunno i always have a fear of cracks from fiberglass must less molding it onto metal. some has great success with it, tho

ABD
01-21-2007, 04:05 PM
Hard to add to all the great info above...One thing i like that i didn't see mentioned is Fibertech.........I love the stuff...You can whack it with a hammer when it's cured, nothing more than a scratch....Here's a link for better explanationhttp://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=11160&itemType=PRODUCT

colourshift
01-21-2007, 04:54 PM
More great info...but to add one more bit, I agree with Whit...adding more structure would only improve the install, and durability. (talking from design experience- it's what I do.)

Whit
01-25-2007, 09:57 AM
Here's an old shot on one during the 70's !!!
This was when Turbo's were just coming on
the scene and this customer ordered a 350
special and wanted a turbo install !!!
Natch,, there was'nt room under the hood,, so,,,
we needed room,,, only way was to add it !!!
This application proved to be inadequate because
of the heat generated from the turbo and it
bubbled due to the heat,,, so an additional "Wing"
was added off to the side and served the purpose
of airflow through the wing allowing the heat to
escape !!! Actually looked pretty good with the
Hawiaan "Outrigger" wing and worked great !!!
Don't have pics of wing but this was taken while
the magazine photographer was shooting for an
article on the processes to do the conversions
(hahahahaha) but he did'nt get the wing as well,,
so if anyone tried the application,, I'm sure they
ran into the same problem,,, heat !!!

Clinton
01-25-2007, 10:32 AM
I'm going to second or third Fusor, been using it for the last 5 years with zero issues. It's very strong and easy to work with. The nice thing about this product is that it's been tested and used in the manufacturing plants for over 12 years prior to bringing it to the public market.

Colourshift, the reason it's so strong is it provides a full bond along the "whole" seam or joint you apply it to. Not just a spot here or there like a spot weld. Any glue works on the same principle really, you just get a constant full seam bond if it's applyed right.

BHC Motorsports
01-25-2007, 10:35 AM
Well,,, this may turn into a long post,, but,,,
I've done it several diff ways trying for longevity !!!
If it's a nonfunctional scoop,,, it's a lot simpler,,,
just poprivet,, mold in ,,, but if it's a functioning
scoop,,, after you cut the opening,, cut some metal
strap the length of the opening and bond (I used JB weld)
to the UNDERSIDE of the opening (for strength) and
make sure it lines up with the flange on the scoop on top
to pop rivet the scoop thru the hood AND metal strap !!!
Laminate with resin under the scoop before the rivets !!!
Then it's just a matter of molding the fiberglass to the
scoop and hood for your final blending in !!!
Grind reasonably smooth and bodyfiller (bondo ??) for
finish work !!!
The metal hood "Flexes",,, the fiberglass does'nt,, that's
the reason for the metal straps to solidify the hood flex
and keep it from cracking out in a short period of time !!!
It took several hoodscoops to figure this out but it works !!!
Good Luck on it !!!
-
PS,,, this is for a smoothed in moulded scoop !!!

X2 Whit

I had a ford probe that I had done exactly the same and had no problems at all.

Stang
01-29-2007, 11:25 PM
I used Duramix but switched to Fusor. A little cheaper. Check on smartshoppersinc for fibertech. I think it was 16$?on there. Not sure